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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Svatyně
Upper crack chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Svatyně
Through the center of the left lower block, passing K into the recess and then n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Severní bašta
Completely in the right part of the lower wall of the right block M, into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Horní skála
In the middle part of M, wall over 2 K to the crack-chimney and through it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Horní skála
In the left part of the valley wall, crack over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Horní skála
In the right part of M, crack over K to the chimney and through it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Předhradí
Along the left valley edge of the third block M over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Věrka
Center of the E wall directly over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Předhradí
Center of the valley wall of the last block M to K and wall diagonally to the right n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Věrka
From NW to the edge and along it over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Věrka
Along the W edge under the overhang of the original route and it n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Věrka
In the left part of the E wall directly over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Věrka
From the boulder at the S wall, crack diagonally left under the overhang and right n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Předhradí
Right edge of the last block M over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Předhradí
Center of the SE wall of the 3rd block M over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Předhradí
Distinct rib at the end of the left part of the 2nd block M over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Předhradí
Crack in the W wall in the left part of M over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Předhradí
In the right part of the valley wall of the adjacent tower of the 2nd block M over 2 K n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Předhradí
Crack to the right of the route "Širočina" over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Předhradí
Chimney between M and the adjacent tower in the middle part of M directly n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Předhradí
Valley edge at the beginning of the left part of the 3rd block M over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Předhradí
Large depression in the right valley part of the adjacent tower overhanging crack over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Předhradí
In the left part of the valley wall of the adjacent tower along the edge over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Předhradí
Center of the valley wall of the third block M over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Předhradí
Crack in the middle of the wall in the right part of M over 2 bolts, no top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Předhradí
Edge at the beginning of M over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Předhradí
Double crack to the left of the route "Summer Time" over K under the overhang, chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Předhradí
Crack-chimney between M and the large pillar in the right part of M to a bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Předhradí
Slightly overhanging corner in the right part of the 1st block of M over the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Předhradí
In the W wall in the left part of the 1st block M over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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