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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Předhradí
Twice broken, gradually widening crack over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Předhradí
Right part of the massive gap at the beginning of M, over the 1st bolt into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Předhradí
Indentation in the right part of M over the 1st bolt to the crack and through it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vyhlídka spodní patro
In the left part of the massif, across the wall over 2 bolts, no top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Račská jehla
Sharp V edge, no view. Rock Climbing
6
Račská jehla
In the middle of the upland wall, chimney to the bolt, to the crack and no view. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Račská jehla
Northwest edge directly to the balcony. Rock Climbing
6
Račská jehla
Center of the southeast wall to a bolt and to the left, no view. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Račská jehla
Chimney to the balcony on the northwest edge and along it, no view. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vyhlídka spodní patro
In the left part of the massif, across the wall over a bolt into a sloping slab and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vyhlídka spodní patro
In the right part of the left valley wall of M, over 3 bolts to the terrace and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Overhanging wall in the middle part of the left valley wall of M, over 3 bolts into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Left part of the southwest wall over 4 bolts, no top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Southwest wall in the left part of M to the 1st bolt, gully over 2 bolts and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Second crack west behind "Račská jehla" over a bolt, no top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vyhlídka spodní patro
First crack west behind "Račská jehla" into a hole (hourglass) and to the right, no top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Overhanging crack in the left part of M over the 1st bolt to a small balcony to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10
Vyhlídka spodní patro
From the 4th bolt of the original route slightly to the right and over the 5th bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vyhlídka spodní patro
To the right of the "Spring Fatigue" route, across the wall along the edge over 3 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Vyhlídka spodní patro
By chimney around "Račská jehla" to the 1st bolt, then through the wall over another 4… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vyhlídka spodní patro
By chimney between "Račská jehla" and the M wall to a sloping ledge. Briefly across the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Vyhlídka spodní patro
To the left of the "Moravian Way", across the wall over 5 bolts and diagonally to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Widening crack to the left of the "Go Ježíšku go" route upwards under the balcony,… Rock Climbing
7
Vyhlídka spodní patro
At the border between the middle and right (receding) part of the lower wall M, use a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Vyhlídka spodní patro
To the right of the "Stepující stonožka" route over the bolt, higher up to the bolt of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Crack in the right (receding) part of the lower wall M upwards, briefly lift onto the… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Smooth wall to the left of the "Central Crack" route, over 6 bolts to the rappel bolt, no… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Through the crack in the middle of the wall over a bolt, no top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Through the recess to the ledge and to the bolt, onto the ramp and along it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Start with a finger chimney at the border between the middle and right (receding) part of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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