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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Raubíř
Along the right edge of the J wall briefly upwards, traverse right into the chimney and… Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna u Novoroční
In the wall between 'Novoroční věž' (New Year's Tower) and 'Raubíř' (Robber) via 2 bolts,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Stěna u Novoroční
Up the chimney at the beginning of the right part of M and then the first narrow crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna u Novoroční
Up the overhanging wall to the 1st bolt, left to the 2nd bolt, through the depression and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Stěna u Novoroční
Up the chimney in the middle of the wall, n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Stěna u Novoroční
Along the SW edge via 2 bolts, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna u Novoroční
Up the middle of the wall to the left of the 'Zkratka' (Shortcut) route via 2 bolts, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna u Novoroční
In the right part of M via 1st bolt to the oblique terrace to the 2nd bolt and via 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stěna u Novoroční
Up the chimney all the way to the left, n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Stěna u Novoroční
Up the wall alongside the chimney to a bolt, from there into the gully and along it, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna u Novoroční
Up the prominent crack in the middle of the wall via a bolt, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna u Novoroční
Start to the left of the 'Lednová spára' (January Crack) route, via a bolt to an oblique… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna u Novoroční
Up the right part of the wall via 2 bolts, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Loupežnická stěna
Up the chimney to the saddle and further, n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Loupežnická stěna
Up the crack in the middle part of M via a bolt to an oblique slab, over steps to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Loupežnická stěna
Up the chimney in the down-valley wall via a bolt into a massive depression and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Loupežnická stěna
Up the chimney in the inner part of M, fall into an oblique crack and along it, n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Loupežnická stěna
Up the crack to the left of the down-valley chimney via 1st bolt to the terrace and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Loupežnická stěna
In the left part of the S wall, through a notch into a hole and up the wall via 2 bolts,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Loupežnická stěna
Between the massifs with a jump, n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Stěna pod Srdcovou
In the center of the downhill wall over 2 K to the abseiling K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna pod Srdcovou
Through the center of the downhill wall to the left of the route "Mother's Day" over 3 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod Srdcovou
In the center of the wall, through a fine crack (loops) and over K to the abseiling K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Loupežnická stěna
Through the middle of the down-valley wall via a bolt, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna pod Srdcovou
Through the center of the downhill wall over 3 K (between 2nd and 3rd K hours) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod Srdcovou
In the left part of the wall over K to the crack and through it over 2 K to the abseiling… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna pod Srdcovou
In the middle of the wall, through a crack (loops) over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Loupežnická stěna
Start from the terrace in the right part of the down-valley wall, from there along a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Loupežnická stěna
Up the right part of the down-valley wall via 1st bolt into the small cave, via 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod Srdcovou
In the right part of the downhill wall over 3 K to the abseiling K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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