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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Ganja
Diagonally up the wall past 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Ganja
Up the wall below the abseil point past 2 bolts, around a large block. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Ganja
Up the wall past 2 bolts into the groove and up it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Ganja
Up the wall past 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Ganja
Up the edge past 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Ganja
Up the double crack in the corner at the beginning of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Ganja
In the right part of the wall, up the edge via a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Ganja
In the side wall, along the edge via 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Ganja
Up the corner chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Ganja
Up the corner in the middle part of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Srdcová stěna
Up the chimney in the left part of the downhill wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Srdcová stěna
In the right part of the wall, up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Ganja
Diagonally right up the wall to 1st bolt. Up and over the edge to the 2nd bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Srdcová stěna
In the center of the downhill wall, via a large hole to the 1st ring. Directly to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
In the right part of the south wall of the buttress, diagonally left from the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
Through the gully to the right of the "Old Route" to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
From the north buttress, drop into the right part of the south wall. Traverse right along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
Along the northwest edge of the south buttress to its summit. Drop into the right part of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
From the northeast edge of the tower, traverse along the ledge to a ring. Up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
Along the northwest edge of the south buttress, via a ring to its summit and the "Normal… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Srdcová stěna
In the right part of the wall of the right M block, up the corner crack via 2 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
Up the south wall of the east buttress via 2 rings to its summit and the "Normal Route"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Srdcová stěna
In the center of the right M block, up the wall via 2 rings into the gully (3rd ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
From the south chimney, right onto the south edge of the east buttress and up it via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
From the tower terrace, along the southwest wall into the gully and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
From the left edge of the tower terrace, along the southwest wall directly up and through… Rock Climbing
7
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
2 m to the left of the "Normal Route", up the SE wall to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
From the south chimney, go left along the right edge of the downhill wall into a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
From the west, briefly up the chimney and right along the edge to the holes, past the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
Start from the valley along the southwest edge, diagonally right across the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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