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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Bukovecká věž
Through the chimney between the towers to the "Pusté věže" terrace, traverse to the SE… Rock Climbing
6
Pustá věž
Through the middle of the NE wall between the chimneys n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bukovecká věž
Through the right part of the South wall over 2 K's n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bukovecká věž
Along the West edge over the clock and K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Bukovecká věž
Up the West wall over 2 K's n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pustá věž
Up the pillar in the right part of the NW wall over the 1st K to the terrace and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pustá věž
Up the wall to the left of the corner crack to K, over the overhang directly onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pustá věž
Through the middle of the West wall over 2 K's to the terrace and straight on n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pustá věž
Through the chimney between "Bukovecká věž" and the tower to the terrace and through the… Rock Climbing
4
Pustá věž
From the NW through a crack into the cave, up the left edge to an outcrop and through a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pustá věž
From the bivouac, up the wall to the left of the corner (or using the corner) into a hole… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pustá věž
Via the SW edge over K and the clock n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pustá věž
Via the "Sunny Route" to the terrace and through the middle of the slab over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pustá věž
From "Bukovecká věž" jump to the terrace and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pustá věž
Through the crack to the right of the SW edge (K) into the large cave. From there either… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Pustá věž
To the left of the East edge, over 2 K's n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pustá věž
From (K) original route, right into a recess n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Pustá věž
Up the left chimney in the NW wall, no variants. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hlídka
In the left part of the downhill wall, over the hourglass to the 1st ring bolt (K), then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pustá věž
To the left of the „Normal Route“, up the chimney between M and the tower to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Hlídka
In the left part of the downhill wall, up the corner over a ring bolt (K) (loops) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pustá věž
From the East edge diagonally left to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pustá věž
On the right in the SE wall, follow the corner crack to the clock, diagonally right to K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pustá věž
From the South via a corner crack (right under the overhang of the clock) to the terrace… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pustá věž
From M, jump to the wall and pull up, no variants. Rock Climbing
6
Hlídková stěna
Up the crack and chimney over a ring bolt (K), not traversed. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Hlídka
Jump from the massif, no variants. Rock Climbing
2
Hlídka
Up the uphill wall, no variants. Rock Climbing
4
Hlídka
In the right part of the downhill wall, up the chimney between M and the tower onto the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlídka
Traverse right from the terrace in the downhill wall to the 1st ring bolt (K), then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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