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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
Along the edge over 2 K to 3rd K, left into the gully and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
From the notch to the right to K and through the overhanging crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
From K straight up n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Podzámčí
Start to the left of the "Chimney Route" along the wall to 1st K. Straight or from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Podzámčí
Through the middle of the descending wall over 5 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Podzámčí
Western chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Podzámčí
From 1st K of the "Coffin Carriers Route" straight over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Podzámčí
Left part of the wall diagonally left to the edge to 1st K, straight to 2nd K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
Eastern edge to K, traverse left into the crack (K) and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Podzámčí
Through the crack into the chimney, from there to the right to K, traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Podzámčí
Along the wall over 2 K and a rappel K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Podzámčí
Through the chimney from the south n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Podzámčí
In the right part of the Z wall over 2 K to a crack and through it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Podzámčí
To the right of the Scottish Sprays route, over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Podzámčí
From the right to the S edge (or directly along the edge), then over 2 K to the falcon … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Podzámčí
Along the wall of the pillar over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Podzámčí
West wall over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Podzámčí
Via "Scottish Injections" to 2nd K. From there, falcon to the right to the edge (3rd K)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Podzámčí
Through a crack to a balcony, from the left through a crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Podzámčí
Completely in the right part of the J wall to the 1st K. Overhanging chimney over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stěna proti bivaku
Along the sloping ledge to the left to the 1st K. Along the wall over the 2nd K to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Podzámčí
SW wall over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Podzámčí
In the right part of the J wall, a corner and under an overhanging boulder. Then straight… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stěna proti bivaku
Through the right part over 2 K to a ledge, through a gully n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna proti bivaku
Through the left part of the wall over 4 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna proti bivaku
Through the center of the wall over K to a ledge and through a gully n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna proti bivaku
Through the left part of the wall over 3 K to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna proti bivaku
In the left part of the narrow J wall, over 2 K and an hourglass to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna proti bivaku
Through a crack over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna proti bivaku
Through the center of the Z wall over the 1st K into a hole (hourglass), to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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