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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Hlídka
From the uphill side, up the chimney, no variants. Rock Climbing
6
Hlídková stěna
In the right part of the wall, chimneying to a ring bolt (K). Up the crack (hourglass,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Hlídková stěna
Up the right part of the wall over the 1st ring bolt (K) into the hole (hourglass), left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hlídková stěna
In the left part of the wall over 2 ring bolts (K) and the rappel ring bolt (K), not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kotlová stěna
On the left in the NW wall, up the crack, not traversed. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kotlová stěna
In the center of the NW wall, up the right chimney, not traversed. Rock Climbing
5
Kotlová stěna
In the North wall, up the crack over a ring bolt (K) onto the ledge and up the chimney,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kotlová stěna
Chimney between M and "Kotlova věž" (Boiler Tower) onto the ledge and up the oblique… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kotlová stěna
To the left of the "Right Valve" route, up the wall over 2 ring bolts (K), not traversed. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kotlová stěna
In the center of the NW wall, up the left chimney, not traversed. Rock Climbing
6-
Kotlová stěna
Up the wall to the 1st and 2nd ring bolts (K), right into the gully and up through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Kotlová stěna
Far left in the North wall, chimneying to the 1st ring bolt (K) and onto the ledge and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kotlová stěna
To the right of the "Right Chimney" route, up the rounded edge over a ring bolt (K), not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
In the left part of the N wall along the NE edge to K, straight to K of the "Old Route"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kotlová stěna
To the left of the „Steam Engine“ route to a ring bolt (K), up and right to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kotlová stěna
In the main wall to the right of the route „Steam Engine“, up the wall through the hole… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kotlová stěna
Opposition between the wall and the edge n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Kotlová stěna
In the right part of the wall over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kotlová stěna
Left part of the separate block to the right of the main wall over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kotlová stěna
In the main NW wall, to the right of the chimneys, up the wall over 3 ring bolts (K), not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Kotlová stěna
In the main wall to the right of the "Oči topičovy" route over 4 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kotlová stěna
In the right part of the separate block to the right of the main wall over 2 K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
To the right of the "South Wall" over 3 K and the big spike n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
Start with opposition between M and the tower. Fall into the wall and to the left to K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
SW edge to the clocks, traverse left and along the wall to K. From there up and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
Falcons to the left of the SE edge to the end and to the right to K of the orig. route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
From M jump to the uphill wall and over the edge of the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
Corner to the left of the NW edge to the left to 1st K. Along the wall over 2nd K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
To the right of the NW edge along the wall over 2 K to the notch and via the "Špásuvina"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kotlová věž (Kesselturm)
In the S wall through the crack to K. Along the wall and the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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