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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
From the left edge of the main tower terrace, along the southwest wall traverse on the… Rock Climbing
7
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
To the left of the start of the original route, climb the wall to a ring and directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Trubadůr (Jungfernstein)
To the left of the south chimney, climb the wall past the 1st ring to the terrace to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod bivakem
To the right along the left edge of the NW wall of the 2nd block M over 2 K's directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod bivakem
To the left of the "Middle Crack" along the edge over 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna pod bivakem
Through the center of the right part of the SW downhill wall of the 2nd block M directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod bivakem
To the right of the "Middle Crack" over 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna pod bivakem
Through the center of the right part of the NW wall of the 2nd block M over 2 K's to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna pod bivakem
Through the center of the left part of the NW wall of the 2nd block M over 3 K's to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod bivakem
Up the south wall of the 1st block M to the right of the prominent crack, over 2 K's to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna pod bivakem
Up the second corner crack in the central part of the first block M, over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stěna pod bivakem
To the left along the left downhill edge of the S wall of the 1st block M, over 2 K's to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod bivakem
In the right part of the SW downhill wall of the 2nd block M to the 1st K, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod bivakem
Up the left part of the SW downhill wall of the 1st block M diagonally to the left over 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna pod bivakem
Up the prominent crack in the S wall of the 1st block M, over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod bivakem
Up the right part of the S wall of the 1st block M, over 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Stěna pod bivakem
Through the center of the chimney separating both M blocks (at the crack perpendicular to… Rock Climbing
2
Stěna pod bivakem
Through the chimney at the beginning of the first block M upwards, traverse left and… Rock Climbing
6-
Bukovecká věž
Start in the center of the NE wall directly to the K. Traverse right to the S edge and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna pod bivakem
Up the narrow wall over 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bukovecká věž
In the left part of the NE wall, start into the wall and follow it to the K, from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Bukovecká věž
In the left part of the West wall over 3 K's n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Bukovecká věž
Along the edge, over 2 K's, to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5
Stěna pod bivakem
Through the first corner at the beginning of the first block M, over K and past the fixed… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stěna pod bivakem
Up the sloping wall over 2 K's into the small chimney and through it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bukovecká věž
Through the middle of the South wall over 2 K's n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pustá věž
In the left part of the NW wall over 3 K's n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pustá věž
Through the right chimney in the NE wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Pustá věž
To the right of the "Northeast Chimney" up the wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pustá věž
To the right of the "Normal Route" over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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