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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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7
Stěna pod Srdcovou
In the right part of the downhill wall over 2 K directly to the abseiling K Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod Srdcovou
In the right part of the downhill wall directly to the 1st K, then diagonally to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna pod Srdcovou
In the right part, up the wall over 2 K to the abseiling K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Datura
Through the center of the wall over K to the abseiling K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Datura
Through the crack in the left part of the downhill wall over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna pod Srdcovou
In the right part of the downhill wall, up the wall and crack over 2 K to the abseiling K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Datura
In the left part of the second block, up the wall to the shelf to the 1st K, along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Datura
Through the center of the second block over 3 K and the summit ring n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Peyotl
Along the NW edge of the large block M over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Peyotl
Through the center of the NW wall of the large block M over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Datura
Through an inconspicuous depression in the right part of the wall over K to the gutter… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Peyotl
Far left in the N wall by the edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Peyotl
From the massif, jumping over a stone and jumping over n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Peyotl
In the left part of the NW wall over 2 K directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Peyotl
Through the left part of the NW wall of the large block M along the small falcons over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Peyotl
In the right part of the NW wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Peyotl
Up the uphill crack in the middle of the small block M. Rock Climbing
6
Peyotl
Through the center of the NW wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Peyotl
Up the downhill curved edge of the small block M past 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Peyotl
Through the right part of the NW wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Peyotl
Up the middle of the S face of the small block M along the small corners past a bolt into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Peyotl
By the lower crack of the small block M under the overhang (K), then to the right by a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Peyotl
From S onto the small block M, using a wedged boulder to the crack and up it. Rock Climbing
2
Ganja
Up the penultimate chimney at the end of M. Rock Climbing
2
Ganja
Up the chimney at the end of M. Rock Climbing
4
Ganja
Up the corner. Rock Climbing
6-
Ganja
Up the wall past 2 bolts into the crack and up it past the 3rd bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Ganja
Up the corner past a bolt to the top of the block, then along the edge. Rock Climbing
3
Ganja
Up the chimney to a wedged block and then traverse left. Rock Climbing
5
Ganja
Up the crack on the edge of the left part of M past a bolt. Rock Climbing

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