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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Vyhlídka horní patro
To the left of the "Left Crack" route, a wider crack n. t. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Completely in the right part of M, up the lower wall over 3 bolts to the overhang and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vyhlídka horní patro
Start between the 1st and 2nd block M, traverse diagonally left upwards, over the bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Vyhlídka horní patro
Wider crack at the beginning of the 1st block M directly n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídka horní patro
Wider crack to the left of the Zvonivá crack over the overhang n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Vyhlídka spodní patro
To the right of the "Nevaž se odvaž se" route, up the wall to the 1st bolt, right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vyhlídka horní patro
Overhang at the beginning of the 2nd block M to the left of "Zvonivá spára", to the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vyhlídka spodní patro
Through the center of the right lower wall over 2 bolts to the crack, up it over the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Vyhlídka horní patro
In the left part of M, up the wall over 3 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Masiv pod Jeřabinkou
Chimney in the left part of the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Jeřabinka
Through the center of the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Masiv pod Jeřabinkou
Along the right lower edge over 2 bolts to the ledge, briefly left and over the overhang… Rock Climbing
8
Vyhlídka horní patro
Along the right lower edge M, over 5 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Masiv pod Jeřabinkou
Through the center of the wall of the lower block M, past the clock and bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vyhlídka horní patro
Left corner crack and higher up, a chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Vyhlídka horní patro
Right corner crack to the bolt, right to the ledge and chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Jeřabinka
From the uphill side to the NE edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Jeřabinka
In the left part of the lower wall, use a crack to the 1st bolt. Up the wall and chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jeřabinka
Through the center of the lower wall to the 1st bolt. Up into the big hole to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jeřabinka
In the right part of the lower wall, use a corner crack to its end. Traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jeřabinka
Center of the E face over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Raubíř
Along the right edge of the uphill face to the 1st bolt, traverse behind the edge into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Raubíř
Crack in the middle of the downhill face to the 1st bolt, from there straight up over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Raubíř
Left along the right edge of the J wall over a bolt and anchors straight to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Stěna u Raubíře
Chimney parallel to the uphill face completely on the left of M to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Stěna u Raubíře
Chimney separating M completely on the left to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Raubíř
Left along the right edge of the downhill face over 2 bolts straight to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Raubíř
Jump from the massif to the top (without descending). Rock Climbing
2
Raubíř
Through the chimney between M and the tower (along the inner crack of M) to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Raubíř
Descend from M to a ledge and jump to the top. Rock Climbing

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