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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Trampská stěna
Through the crack in the middle part of the valley wall via 3 K to a small balcony, from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Trampská stěna
In the middle of the right part of the wall, through the small crack to the 1st K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Trampská stěna
Through the middle of the valley wall via 2 K to the gully, directly into the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Trampská stěna
In the middle of M, through the overhanging wall via 3 K n. t. (next to) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Trampská stěna
Along the left valley edge via 2 K to the ledge and from there via the 3rd K straight up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Trampská stěna
Through the crack in the right part of the valley wall to K, from there through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Trampská stěna
In the left part of M, through the crack to the 1st K, up the sloping slab to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Trampská stěna
In the Z wall of the right block M via 2 K n. t. (next to) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Trampská stěna
Through the middle of the wall of the right block M via K to the hourglasses, then left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Trampská stěna
In the left part of the wall of the right block M via K to the ledge, briefly left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sokolská stěna
Through the middle of the NE wall via K and to the rappel K n. t. (next to) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Trampská stěna
In the right part of the NW wall, via 2 K to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Trampská stěna
Through the crack under the overhang and the passage n. t. (next to) Rock Climbing
5
Trampská stěna
In the right block M through the wall to K, from there to the chimney and up it n. t. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Trampská stěna
In the right part of the wall, up the chimney to the end, left onto the ledge and through… Rock Climbing
3
Trampská stěna
In the right part of the Z wall of the second block, through the wall to the chimney and… Rock Climbing
8
Sokolská stěna
Through the middle of the valley wall via 3 K and rappel K n. t. (next to) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sokolská stěna
From V via the corner chimney n. t. (next to) Rock Climbing
7
Sokolská stěna
In the left part of the Z wall, via 2 K to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna u Podzimní
From the right or left onto the edge and over it via 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Stěna u Podzimní
Through the chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Sokolská stěna
In the right part of the Z wall, via K to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna u Podzimní
Through the center of the East wall, via K to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sokolská stěna
In the right part of the Z wall, via K to the rappel K, then via 2 K n. t. (next to) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sokolská stěna
In the left part of the valley wall, via 3 K to the crack and along it n. t. (next to) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Sokolská stěna
From the 1st K of the route "Ride on the Snake" to the left and via 2nd and 3rd K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Podzimní věž
Left part of the valley wall along the overhang to K, slightly left into the recess and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Podzimní věž
Directly up the eastern overhanging wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Podzimní věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Podzimní věž
In the right part of the valley wall, overhanging (hourglass) to K and up over the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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