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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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5
Podzimní věž
Left part of the valley wall to K and through the recess n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna u Podzimní
In the Northern part of the wall, via K to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna u Podzimní
Through the right part of the NW wall, via K to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna u Podzimní
Through the central part of the NW wall, via K to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Masiv u Dvojité
Through the chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Masiv u Dvojité
Through the chimney from the south n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Masiv u Dvojité
Up the valley (North) wall via 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Masiv u Dvojité
Through the chimney from the North n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Masiv u Dvojité
In the North wall, via the right crack n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Masiv u Dvojité
Through the chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
1
Podzimní věž
Directly from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Masiv u Dvojité
Up the valley wall to the 1st K of the route "Reumatologická", then right and up via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Masiv u Dvojité
In the North wall, via the left crack n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Masiv u Dvojité
In the right part of the valley wall, via 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing
1
Dvojitá
From the massif with two jumps n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Dvojitá
Up the downhill wall past the hourglass and K to the rappel K and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Dvojitá
Through the center of the NE wall, via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Dvojitá
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojitá
Through the chimney between the towers n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Meduza
In the central part of the downhill wall across 2 K to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Gutstein
From the downhill side through the chimney between the towers n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Gutstein
In the right part of the E wall to a sloping ledge and up the overhanging wall across 2 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Gutstein
Up the left downhill edge across 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Gutstein
Through the middle of the E wall, past a small cave to K, from there slightly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Gutstein
Up the east wall across K into a crack-chimney and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Gutstein
Up a diagonal crack near the right downhill edge to the left into a chimney, up it to a… Rock Climbing
7
Gutstein
Up the downhill wall past the hourglass into a chimney, up it to a block and along a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Gutstein
From the downhill side through the chimney to a ledge, traverse left to 1st K, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Gutstein
In the W wall, across a flake into a crack and up it across K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Gutstein
Up a crack in the left part of the W wall to a block and along a rounded edge n. v. Rock Climbing

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