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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Sněhový masiv
Along the right side of the break (in the left part of the adjacent tower) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sněhový masiv
Through a wider chimney in the center of M (between the adjacent tower and M) over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vánoční masiv
Through the right part of the S face over an hourglass to K and directly along the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vánoční masiv
In the left part of the E face of M over K and a rappelling K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vánoční masiv
In the middle part of the E face of M over K and a rappelling K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Vánoční masiv
Through the middle of the W wall over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vánoční masiv
Through the right chimney in the valley wall, passage to the center of M and through the… Rock Climbing
6
Vánoční masiv
Along the small pillar along the SW edge of the valley wall of M over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vánoční masiv
Through the left part of the S face over 2 K directly n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vánoční masiv
Through the left valley chimney over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vánoční masiv
Through a prominent chimney in the E face of M n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Svatomartinská stěna
To the right of the E chimney of the second M block over an overhang to K. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vánoční masiv
Via a crack in the middle part of the E face of M to K, slightly left and over a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Svatomartinská stěna
Through the East chimney of the second M block to the adjacent pillar, up the wall and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Svatomartinská stěna
In the second M block up the wall to the left of the breakthrough over the 1st K left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Svatomartinská stěna
In the left part of the N face of the first M block via a broken corner crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Svatomartinská stěna
Up the North face of the first M block over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Svatomartinská stěna
Along the East edge of the second M block over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Svatováclávská stěna
Briefly up the chimney between the blocks and left along the edge over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Svatováclávská stěna
From W through a narrow chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Svatováclávská stěna
To the right of "Fool's Crack" up the wall and edge over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Svatomartinská stěna
Up the North face along the edge to K, from there left into the crack and through it over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Svatováclávská stěna
In the left part of the W wall over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Svatomartinská stěna
Through the middle of the W wall over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Svatomartinská stěna
Through the right part of the W wall over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Svatováclávská stěna
Up the wall to the left of the chimney directly to the 1st K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Svatováclávská stěna
In the left part of the W wall via a wide crack (K) and higher up the chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Svatováclávská stěna
Through a crack in the left part of the valley wall over the overhang to the 1st bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Svatováclávská stěna
Through the chimney in the middle part of M (between blocks) to the bolt, pass the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Svatováclávská stěna
Up the wall in the middle part (right of the chimney) over 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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