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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Svatováclávská stěna
Left of the "Saint Wenceslas Route", through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Dědkova stěna
In the left part of the wall, through a prominent indentation over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Dědkova stěna
Through the crack-chimney in the right part of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Dědkova stěna
Left of the valley crack, up the wall over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dědkova stěna
Left of the route "Fifty-seven", up the wall, through the notch over the bolt and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Svatováclávská stěna
Up the middle of the valley wall, higher up through a crack over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Aurora
Up the SE wall over the bolt to the balcony (rappelling ring) and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Aurora
In the right part of the valley wall over 2 bolts to the balcony (rappelling ring) and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jižní terasa - levá část
Up the middle of the narrow Z wall of the last block of M, over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Aurora
Through the crack in the middle of the valley wall to the balcony (rappelling ring) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Aurora
In the right part of the NW wall over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Aurora
In the left part of the valley wall, through a crack (sling) to the end and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Jižní terasa - levá část
Briefly over the overhang in the left part of the third block of M, over 3 ledges to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Jižní terasa - levá část
Through a prominent crack in the left part of the left block of M (slings) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Jižní terasa - levá část
Up the middle of the wall of the left block of the left part of M, over 2 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jižní terasa - levá část
Along the edge of the central block of the left part of M, over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jižní terasa - levá část
Up the middle of the right side wall of the left part of M, over the 1st bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Jižní terasa - levá část
Briefly along the route "Temperature Record". Traverse right to the 1st bolt and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Jižní terasa - levá část
Through the chimney between the second and third block of M to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Jižní terasa - levá část
Through a prominent crack in the right part of the left block of M, over the bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jižní terasa - levá část
In the right part of the wall of the central block of the left part of M, through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jižní terasa - levá část
Start briefly through a corner in the center of the left part of M, then right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jižní terasa - levá část
Up the left valley edge in the center of the left part of M over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jižní terasa - levá část
Up the wall to the left of the Corner Crack over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jižní terasa - levá část
Up the center of the slab in the middle of the left part over K into a crack and up it n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Jižní terasa - levá část
Through a corner crack in the center of the left part of M over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jižní terasa - levá část
Up the middle of the Z wall between the chimney and the edge, over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jižní terasa - levá část
Up the right part of the wall at the beginning of the left part of M (to the left of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jižní terasa - levá část
Up the center of the wall at the beginning of the left part of M (to the left of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Jižní terasa - levá část
Through the chimney in the middle of the left part of M (at the beginning of the central… Rock Climbing

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