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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Ochoz
Along the E edge of the 2nd block of M via 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Gutstein
From the end of the flake up the wall across K into a groove and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Gutstein
Through the chimney between M and the main tower n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Ochoz
Through the inner chimney between blocks 5 and 6 of M to 1st K, briefly to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Gutstein
Along the right edge of the W wall across 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Gutstein
Through the right part of the S wall along the edge via 1st K of the route "Minuta ticha"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Gutstein
From the massif, jumping to the main tower. Rock Climbing
6
Sněhový masiv
In the E wall of the adjacent M via K to the abseil K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ochoz
Through the wall to the left of the chimney via K to K of the "Esko" route and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Ochoz
In the right part of the S wall of the separate block via 1st K and 2nd K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Ochoz
Left along the right valley edge via 2 K (between K hourglass) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Ochoz
Through the middle of the wall to the left of the S edge via 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sněhový masiv
Through the West wall in the left part of M via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Ochoz
In the right part of the valley wall via an S-shaped crack-chimney over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sněhový masiv
Along the edge via K to the abseil K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sněhový masiv
Through the wall in the middle part of M via 1st K briefly up, left beyond the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Sněhový masiv
In the right corner via a chimney over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sněhový masiv
Through the break in the middle part of M (at the beginning of the valley chimney) up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sněhový masiv
Through the middle of the W wall in the left part of M via 2 K to the abseil K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sněhový masiv
Through the chimney in the left part of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Sněhový masiv
Through the West wall via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sněhový masiv
Through the middle of the E wall in the left part of M via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sněhový masiv
Through the left corner (loop) via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sněhový masiv
Through the West wall of the adjacent tower via K and abseil K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Sněhový masiv
Through the chimney between the "Christmas Massif" and "Snow Massif" briefly to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sněhový masiv
Through the wall and chimney via 2 K to the abseil K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Vánoční masiv
In the left part of the W wall via 2 K along the chimneys to the abseil K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sněhový masiv
Through the wall to the right of the valley chimney (possibly by stemming the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Sněhový masiv
Through the front part of the valley chimney directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Sněhový masiv
Through the East wall via K to the edge and via K of "Waterlogged Path" to the abseil K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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