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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Jižní terasa - levá část
Through the second chimney at the beginning of the left part of M n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Through the left crack in the center of the 4th block M over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Through the middle crack in the center of the 4th block M over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Up the wall to the left of the route "Gully" over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Along the route "Horse Crack" directly up to the ledge, briefly left to 1st K and further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Jižní terasa - levá část
Through the first chimney at the beginning of the left part of M n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Up the wall to the left of the route "Golden Fly" over K and hourglass n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Through the chimney between the left and right part of the J terrace to 1st K, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Through the right crack in the center of the 4th block M over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Up the wall between the routes "Right Crack" and "Butterfly" over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Through the chimney at the end of the 1st block M n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Jižní terasa - pravá část
By an indentation in the center of the valley wall of the 1st block, further diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Up the wall of the 2nd block M over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Through an indentation at the beginning of the 4th block M into the gully and up it n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Through the chimney to the right of the massive break between the 2nd and 3rd block M to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Overhanging crack in the center of the valley wall of the 1st block (loops) over ledges… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Start by stepping over into the wall from a boulder at the beginning of the 4th block M.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Through a narrow chimney between the 3rd and 4th block M n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Through a crack in the center of the 3rd block M over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Úskočná
Left in the NW wall by an indistinct edge into the gully and to the 1st K, by the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Úskočná
By stemming between the fore-rock and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Úskočná
By the NW edge onto the balcony to K. By the edge onto the fore-rock and by a traverse to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Úskočná
From the plateau side by the chimney between M and the tower to K, a traverse and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Úskočná
By the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Úskočná
By the SW wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jižní terasa - pravá část
Through the right part of the valley wall of the 1st block of M to K on a ledge, right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Jižní terasa - pravá část
By the chimney at the beginning of the 1st block of M to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Úskočná
From the massif from SE, a traverse onto the fore-rock and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Bellevue
By the crack in the E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bellevue
Through the left part of the S wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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