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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Indiánka
Briefly like "Return to Romance" and up the left crack over 2 K below the overhang. Like … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Indiánka
Right of the Medvědí hlava (Bear's Head) route, via a waterfall from the corner (BH) over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Indiánka
In the left pillar over an overhang and up the wall over 7 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Totem
Right of "Tašunka" via a sloping crack to K. Traverse right, up to a sloping ledge, along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Totem
Through the corner between Totem and the left pillar of Indiánka via BH through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Totem
Up the Southeast edge over 2 BH to the balcony and higher up the wall over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Totem
From the valley up the wall into the left crack and along it to its end, further along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Totem
From the valley up the crack to its end to the 1st K. Left behind the edge into a crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Totem
From the 1st K of the "Tašunka" route, directly up the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Totem
From the 1st BH of the "Carefree Windbag" route, slightly left and up over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Totem
Left of the "SE Chimney" over 5 BH, higher up the wall (right of the SE Chimney) over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Totem
From the SE chimney over BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Totem
Up the SE face over 2 K to the ledge and further up the wall to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8-/8
Tee pee
To the left of the corner separating the right pillar, along the blunt edge (3 BH),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Tee pee
On the right pillar, right of the edge, up the wall over 3 BH to the pulpit. Higher up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Tee pee
From the left, along the edge of the right pillar over 2 K to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Tee pee
Up the crack to the left of "Fast Moccasins" to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Tee pee
In the right part of the massif, directly up the wall and via small cracks over 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Tee pee
Completely left through the chimney to a horizontal discontinuity (loop) and to the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Tee pee
On the main pillar via a crack at the blunt edge to the 1st K. Up the wall over the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Tee pee
In the left part of the massif, up the wall along the blunt edge over 2 BH to a ledge (K)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Gilotina
Right of the route "Square of Heavenly Peace" up the wall over 4 BH under the overhang to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Gilotina
Right from the start of the "Moon Face" route via a corner and left to the 1st BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Gilotina
Right of the route "Square of Heavenly Peace" up the wall to the fore-rock and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Gilotina
Through the corner and cracks in the North face over the 1st K into the crack and up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Gilotina
In the fall line of a mighty corner, separating two prominent edges, along the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Gilotina
Right in the valley wall via a corner, higher up a crack to its end to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Gilotina
As a path through the Moon Landscape, traverse the crack and left along the edge over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Gilotina
In the fall line of the sharp edge of the "Guillotine" directly over 2 K to the 1st K of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Gilotina
As "Guillotine" to the flake and left through the gully to the 1st K. Up the wall via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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