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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Kočičí vyhlídka
Left of the Right SE chimney, via a fault to the ledge and traverse right into the niche… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Kočičí vyhlídka
Through the middle of the SE face along the crack and the slabby wall over K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Tlustá jehla
From the left onto the SE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Kočičí vyhlídka
In the left part of the plateau face, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tlustá jehla
In the middle of the S face, up a crack below the overhang and via the corner left or the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Kočičí vyhlídka
Through the middle of the plateau face up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kočičí vyhlídka
Along the right part of the plateau face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Tlustá jehla
From the South side, up a diagonal crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Tlustá jehla
Through the middle of the E face over a slight overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
2
Tlustá jehla
To the right in the plateau wall, up a crack to a balcony and up a slanted wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tlustá jehla
Up the wall below the rappel station directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tlustá jehla
Along the plateau's NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Tlustá jehla
From the right onto the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Tlustá jehla
Approx. 2m left of the NW edge, up the N face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Tlustá jehla
Up the edge of the SW small pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Tlustá jehla
Along the crack diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Přípeřský kámen (Vlčí kámen, Strážce pajprcu)
West face to the summit (loose). Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Přípeřský kámen (Vlčí kámen, Strážce pajprcu)
Right of the Old route, over the overhang and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Přípeřský kámen (Vlčí kámen, Strážce pajprcu)
Right on the upper wall diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Přípeřský kámen (Vlčí kámen, Strážce pajprcu)
From the West, up the wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Přípeřský kámen (Vlčí kámen, Strážce pajprcu)
From the block in the gorge, step across to the Old route and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4+
Přípeřský kámen (Vlčí kámen, Strážce pajprcu)
Left on the upper South face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Pastýřská stěna
To the right of the Professionals' Wall route, up the laid-back S wall directly over 3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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