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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Jenda
Through the middle of the S wall along the tree via BH and traverse left to the shared… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Jenda
In the right part of the S wall via crack n.t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Jenda
In the left part of the S wall via the crack n.t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Jenda
Overhanging edge via BH and hourglasses into the notch and over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Deštník
Via the overhanging edge directly over BH to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Péčko
Through the crack in the middle of the valley wall to BH and from the right to the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Péčko
Overhang directly over 2 BH into the route "We won't sign anything" and via that to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Deštník
In the left part of the wall via BH to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Deštník
Up the wall via 2 BH to the Tourist Route and via that to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Deštník
In the middle of the massif directly to the 1st BH, from the right to the 2nd BH and from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Kovid
In the right part of the wall via BH and two hourglasses to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Zbytek
In the left part of the massif via a fine crack and directly up the wall to BH and from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Vláďa - orientační bod
Along the left valley edge to the ledge and to the right over the BH into the corner and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Cypřich
To the left of the 'I'm Coming' route, up the wall over 2 BH directly to the rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tom a Jerry
Up the overhanging S wall to the prominent edge (BH) and along it to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8+/9-
Cypřich
To the left of the corner in the S wall over the BH directly to the summit for rappelling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Vřesová výspa
To the left of the Calluna vulgaris route, slightly from the right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vřesová výspa
In the right part of the N wall to the fore-rock and up the wall, higher along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vřesová výspa
In the upper right part of the iron-rich south wall over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vřesová výspa
In the left part of the S wall, diagonally left along a receding crack to a large ledge.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vřesová výspa
In the right part of the S wall (BH) up the wall to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vřesová výspa
To the right of the Winter Preparation route, up the wall over 3 K to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
9
Lidice
Through a prominent corner (3 BH) and up the wall to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Břečťanová věž
Through the middle of the South wall via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8+/9-
Břečťanová věž
Up the plateau's overhanging wall via 2 BH and along the edge to the top (n.v.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
4-
Břečťanová věž
In the South wall via an overhang into a crack and through it to a large plateau. Up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Břečťanová věž
From the large plateau, left into the chimney between the tower and the massif and… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Správce bez práce
In the North wall to the left of the overhang via 2 BH to the rappel point at the large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Předposlední stěna
In the middle of the massif along the edge and over the overhang to BH, through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Předposlední stěna
In the corner via an interrupted crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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