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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Sklad zabavených věcí
From the ledge on the left in the valley wall from the left around the bolt and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Sklad zabavených věcí
In the left part of the west face over two bolts directly to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Sklad zabavených věcí
From the bolt of the route "Unconsciousness" from the right along the crack to the rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Rubikova kostka
In the S wall via a short crack and on the ledge to the left to the bolt. Left over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Rubikova kostka
In the south face briefly via a crack and to the right to the 1st bolt. Overhanging edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Žilina
Through the hollow to the bolt and over the overhang and up the wall to the abseil. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Rubikova kostka
In the valley wall via the right crack and wall (4 bolts) to the abseil anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Rubikova kostka
Left of the Ponderosa Ranch route via the crack and wall over 5 bolts to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Rubikova kostka
To the left in the valley wall from the edge below the overhang and over a bolt directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Rubikova kostka
Through the center of the valley wall via a corner crack to the ledge. Up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Převaděč
Left valley (S) edge over 2 bolts and small pillars to the 3rd bolt. Up the edge to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Převaděč
In the right part of the valley wall directly over 2 bolts to the edge (hour-glass) via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Převaděč
Through the center of the valley wall to the 1st bolt directly over the 2nd bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Převaděč
In the left part of the valley wall along the crack (1st bolt), overhanging wall (2 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Žilina
From the balcony in the northwest face, in the left part of the wall, via a small pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Převaděč
To the right of the route "Duty-Free Zone" directly over 2 bolts to the 3rd bolt. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Převaděč
From the right onto the SW edge (1st bolt) and along it (2 bolts) over a large ledge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Převaděč
From the 2nd bolt of the route "Pan Hrabal" left behind the edge and up the wall over 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Hamoun
In the north face directly to the bolt and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Hamoun
From the mountain side diagonally to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Hamoun
From the ledge of the S wall up the wall to the pedestal and up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hamoun
Between the routes Hamty hamty and Náhorní Spára, straight up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
4-
Hamoun
Up the mountain face, higher up the crack. Rock Climbing
6
Černá díra
In the right part of the wall directly to BH and above it to the left to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Černá díra
In the right part of the valley wall directly over BH to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Černá díra
In the left part of the valley wall over BH directly to the BH of the "Láva" route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Jenda
In the left part of the S wall via BH and from the left to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Jenda
Left valley edge via 2BH and overhang to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Jenda
Through the middle of the W wall via 2BH under the roof-like overhang (3rd BH). Over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Deštník
Up the wall to the right of the edge onto the balcony and via BH directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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