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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Jeskyňář
Middle of the plateau face (artificial climbing/aid) over the overhang, right and via the… Rock Climbing
2
Hornožlebský kámen
From the North into the chimney between the main summit and the pre-summit and via that… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hornožlebský kámen
To the right on the North face of the main summit upwards to the recess and via that to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Hornožlebský kámen
From the chimney on the South side briefly to the left and along the cut up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Hornožlebský kámen
To the right on the South side over an overhang, up the wall and through a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Hornožlebský kámen
To the left on the North side over steps to the balcony. Up the wall along the crack cut… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Hornožlebský kámen
Along the valley edge over an overhang to the balcony and like 'Celebration of Bells' to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Hornožlebský kámen
To the right of the Easy Route over overgrown steps to the shelf and from the right up… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2
Hornožlebský kámen
To the left on the South side via a chimney to the pre-summit. Step across to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Hornožlebský kámen
In the middle of the valley (South) wall via a slanting chimney-gully to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Hornožlebský kámen
On the NE side from the right above the overhang diagonally left to the edge. Continue… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Černý kámen
South wall to the left of the Plateau Edge up the wall via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2+
Černý kámen
From the plateau side via a double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Černý kámen
To the left of the 'Spiderweb Variation', up the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Černý kámen
To the left from the valley via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Černý kámen
To the right of the start of the Forest Forge route, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Černý kámen
In the middle from the valley side, via the slanted crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Černý kámen
To the right on the South side through the crack to the balcony and further along the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Černý kámen
From the plateau to the left onto the balcony and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Černý kámen
From the start, also a path along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Černý kámen
To the left in the SW wall, up the slanted chimney to the balcony. Through the chimney on… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Černý kámen
As 'Blacksmith's Apprentice' to the balcony and up the wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Černý kámen
In the middle on the S side, up the wall and cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Strážce Vrásníku
Up the right valley edge via hour-glasses and steps to the balcony. Then as the Valley… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Strážce Vrásníku
Completely to the right on the valley side, up the crack to the balcony and then as the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Černý kámen
Via the prominent north corner over the block and through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Černý kámen
In the north wall, up the wall via K and higher up the wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Černý kámen
To the right of the NE edge onto the ledge. Up the curved rib to the balcony, then a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Strážce Vrásníku
Completely to the left on the S side from the base of the wall, through a depression to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Černý kámen
Via the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay

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