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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Šašek
From the West, via a corner crack to the saddle and as the "Upper Variant of the Old… Rock Climbing
5
Principál
Up the middle of the overhanging S wall into a hole and slightly right to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Šašek
From the saddle, along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Mlynářská výspa
To the right of the edge of the "Tatranská Lomnice" route, from the right up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Šašek
From the West, via a wide overhanging crack to the saddle and as the "Upper Variant of… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Mlynářská výspa
Through the fissure in the W wall over 3 K to a balcony. From the right, along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Mlynářská stěna
From the overgrown balcony at the top on the SE side. In the right part of the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Mlynářská výspa
In the left part of the west wall, via fissures over 4 BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Mlynářská výspa
To the right of the "Cesta za lubem" route, along the edge and right up the wall over 6… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Mlynářská výspa
Like "Tatranská Lomnice" but from the 3rd BH directly along the edge to the 4th BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Mlynářská stěna
From the overgrown balcony at the top on the SE side. Up the wall directly over the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Mlynářská stěna
To the right of "Žebrácký banket" (Beggar's Banquet) by the first prominent crack. Start… Rock Climbing
6
Slunovrat
Up a massive chimney and a crack in the corner, 3K to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Toreador
From S or N via the chimney into the gorge. Like "Walk through the Arena", a long… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2+
Toreador
Descent from the massif between the tower and the massif and via the notch to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Toreador
From the gorge between the tower and the massif onto the wedged boulders on the valley… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9+
Toreador
In the W face from the slope, from the starting BH of the Skaterboy route, difficult via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Toreador
To the right in the valley, the right small face (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Toreador
Along the West edge directly over 3 BH and via a crack into the "Olé" route. Along this… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Toreador
Via the right crack into the niche. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Toreador
From the N, via the chimney between the tower and the massif to the wedged boulders, 2m… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Toreador
In the NW face via the left crack into the niche. Through the chimney above the overhang,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Indiánská vesnice
To the right in the valley, a blunt edge and overhang, see photo. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Indiánská vesnice
Opposite the "Deceptive Beauty" massif, directly up the wall (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Indiánská vesnice
In the valley wall to the right of the chimney, through the center of the wall over 3 BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Klamná kráska
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Klamná kráska
Through the center of the plateau wall over two K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Klamná kráska
In the left part of the plateau wall along the edge to the ring. Up the wall and higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Klamná kráska
In the right part of the plateau face along delicate small dihedrals/pillars directly to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Klamná kráska
From the right valley edge into the chimneys and directly along them to the bh, through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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