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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Strážce Vrásníku
As the Valley Route to the balcony and left under the overhang. Over the overhang (K) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Strážce Vrásníku
To the right on the N side, briefly up the wall to the balcony on the NW edge. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Strážce Vrásníku
In the middle on the north side, up a short wall to the saddle between the peaks. Through… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Strážce Vrásníku
To the right of the Old Route crack, up the wall from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Strážce Vrásníku
Via the North Route to the saddle between the towers. To the right into the N wall of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Strážce Vrásníku
To the left in the valley (W) wall, up the crack to the balcony. To the right, through… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Strážce Vrásníku
To the right of the start of the Valley Route, up a small wall to the balcony. To the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Strážce Vrásníku
Via the edge to the balcony and then as the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Strážce Vrásníku
From the terrace between the South Route and the East Ridge, along the blunt edge to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Strážce Vrásníku
From the terrace on the S side of the E summit, left along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Strážce Vrásníku
From the terrace on the south side of the east peak, in the middle of the wall, up the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Bloková stěna
From the north side up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bloková stěna
Up the chimney from the South to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bloková stěna
From the east side up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Bloková stěna
Approx. three meters from the valley edge, directly up the wall to the balcony and over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bloková stěna
In the right part of the wall, traverse diagonally right along the crack to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Bloková stěna
Along the right edge and left up the wall to the small balcony. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Bloková stěna
Through the middle of the valley wall over the overhang to K. Up the wall under another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Zahradní stěna
To the right of the "April Mud" route, up the wall (photo). Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Polepšovna
To the right of the left overhanging valley edge, a short crack over a notch into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Duše K
Straight to the bolt and directly over the 2nd bolt to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Proutník
On the left via an overhanging crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Žídek
Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Vejprty
Via the SW edge over the bolt directly to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Vejprty
Via an overhanging crack in the middle of the overhang to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Sklad zabavených věcí
On the right in the valley wall via the wall, overhanging at the top (6 bolts) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Sklad zabavených věcí
To the right of the route "And there will be peace" via the small pillar and wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Sklad zabavených věcí
In the left part of the valley wall from the balcony slightly to the right past the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Sklad zabavených věcí
Through the corner and wall over 8 bolts to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Rubikova kostka
In the E wall briefly via a corner and traverse the ledge to the left to the 1st bolt in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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