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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Velký arnoltický kámen
In the left part of the W wall up the wall (K) and over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Velký arnoltický kámen
Left of route “Větroplach” in the middle of the wall to the ledge, up the wall (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Velký arnoltický kámen
Along the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Severní záře
Right into the “Distant Light” route by sharp edge over 5 bolts to the rappel station of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Velký arnoltický kámen
In the middle of the plateau wall. Rock Climbing
2+
Velký arnoltický kámen
Along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Velký arnoltický kámen
In the right part of the W wall through the hole to the ledge, along the rib over the… Rock Climbing
6-
Severní záře
In the NW wall, at the exit of “Lehm's Cave”, by finger, later hand crack in a prominent… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
9/9+
Hlava pomazaná
Along the right valley edge via two BHs to the third, from the right to the fourth, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Hlava pomazaná
Up the wall and edge directly via three BHs to the fourth. Straight and right with the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Hlava pomazaná
In the left part of the massif, up the wall and edge via 3 BHs to the rappel BH (under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Hlava pomazaná
Through the middle of the valley wall directly via two BHs into the crack higher up,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10-/10
Samotářská stěna
To the right of the Crossroads, up the chimney to the balcony. Along the edge over BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Samotářská stěna
Through the notch and higher up the gully BH to the end, second BH, from the right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Samotářská stěna
To the left of the 'Road from Paradise' route, through cracks and along the edge (2 BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Sváteční stěna
To the left of the Legendary Route, up the wall over 4 BH to the ledge. Right to the 5th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Samotářská stěna
Up the pillar to the left of the Crossroads, through the gully over BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Sváteční stěna
Along the hand crack over 4 K to the end and then up the small wall 5 K to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Samotářská stěna
From the corner between the Festive and Solitary Wall, hand traverse right on the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Pařát
From the balcony below the Festive Wall, left along the edge over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
8-/8
Pařát
Along the prominent left valley edge over 4 BH to the balcony; directly over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Lesní hrot
To the right of the path, Fist, along the edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lesní hrot
Shelf in the middle of the valley wall, higher up slightly to the left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lesní hrot
In the upper wall, from the boulder along the blunt edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lesní hrot
Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Via a drop from the fore-rock into the S wall and up it over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Suché Kamenice
About 5m from the SE edge up the wall slightly right to the edge to K. From the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Right of the "Old Route" via an overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Suché Kamenice
From the saddle via a notch below the overhang, traverse left and along the SW edge to… Rock Climbing
6
Věž Suché Kamenice
Through the middle of the S wall over 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing

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