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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Andezit
On the right upland side, up a short wall to a ledge, traverse right and ascend steeply… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Andezit
To the right of the 'Old Route', along the edge to the ledge towards the ascent of the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Andezit
On the left on the S side, from the ledge up the wall to the left to the balcony and as… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Andezit
From the right, along the sharp left upland edge to the ledge and along the edge of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Šikmá jehla
All the way to the left along the edge and via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Andezit
From the start of the 'Sandstone Edge', traverse right to the valley side and up the ramp… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Pivní stín
From the fore-rock up the NE wall directly into the narrow gully and further as the route… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Pivní stín
From the SE corner and further right beyond the edge into the narrow gully, through it… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Březňák
To the left of the path in the background along the crack to the balcony and along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Březňák
In the center of the valley wall over an overhang (1st ring), up the wall to the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Březňák
In the left part of the valley wall via the wall (ring), along the indentation to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Březňák
Up the chimney to the left of the path, via the Skořápky inside. Higher up, crawl through… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Pivní stín
From the right along the S edge via 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Březňák
From the right into the center of the NW wall, up it via 2 bolts to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Periferie
Through the middle of the valley (E) wall via 2 rings to the terrace. (rappelling) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Březňák
On the NW side, to the right of the chimney, along the edge (ring) to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sklepní kobka
Through the right part of the North face by a pillar over K (piton) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Periferie
Via the wall over 2 BH to the summit of the large balcony. (rappel station) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Březňák
From the right along the small crack to the right valley (S) edge. Up that to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Periferie
Through the middle of the NE wall to the bolt, transition left behind the edge (2nd bolt)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Březňák
On the NW side to the left of the chimney via a crack over an overhang and along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Periferie
From the large balcony (from the 1st rappel station) by an overhanging wall over K (piton… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Sklepní kobka
To the left of the "Escape Games" route from the right via the wall to the 1st K (piton)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Sklepní kobka
Through the middle of the East face by a corner and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Sklepní kobka
In the left part of the valley east face by a crack below the overhang (K) and further by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Greta
Left on the massif, via an easy wall to the balcony in the South face. Via the pinnacle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Greta
Right of the "Warm Autumn Sun" route, via a rib to the balcony in the South face. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Greta
In the East face, up the wall and a blunt edge via 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Greta
Along the valley edge (NE), up a narrow wall via the 1st bolt to a ledge. Left up a blunt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Deltaplán
Up the right valley edge via a bolt to a platform and then a steep climb to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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