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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Pohádková vyhlídka
In the large corner from the E side, up and right to the 1st K. Up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Pohádková vyhlídka
Along the valley edge from the right to the balcony on the edge. From the left up the rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pohádková vyhlídka
Along the right valley edge via a crack and edge (hourglass) over 2 ledges to a large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pohádková vyhlídka
Up the corner of the route "Foxes Come at Night" to the end (or descent from the gorge)… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Along the right valley edge over 2 K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Up the chimney of the "Old Route" to the wedged boulder and traverse right into the S… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Left of the SE edge up the wall and traverse right behind the edge to a ledge in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Right on the high wall via a crack to its end and up the wall slightly right, then left… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Up the wall near the S edge over the overhang to the 1st K and further to the K of the SW… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Right of the NW crack from the cave via a chimney to the balcony, then as "High Route" to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Up the wall along the N edge over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Left on the high wall to the balcony and left via the pinnacle to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
From the South, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Malý vlk
Right of the "Old Route" up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Malý vlk
Right of the high edge from the block, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Malý vlk
Right on the valley side via an overhanging crack over K to the balcony. Up the high edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Malý vlk
Left of the high edge up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Malý vlk
From the start of the "Old Route" traverse along the ledge into the valley wall and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Malý vlk
Left on the valley side via a corner and crack to the balcony. Up the high edge to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6
Šikmá jehla
From the balcony on the South side, in the left part of the South wall over 2 K and from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Šikmá jehla
Up the valley NE wall diagonally left to the ledge and further diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Šikmá jehla
From the NW edge, traverse along the ledge to the left into the S wall. Over an overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Šikmá jehla
From the upland side briefly down to the S side. Traverse left and up the wall, then via… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7-/7
Šikmá jehla
From the start of the Extended Route, right through the crack (1. K) to the end on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Šikmá jehla
Left on the valley wall via the corner between the tower and the fore-peak over the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6+/7-
Šikmá jehla
From the balcony on the South side, through the middle of the South wall over the K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Šikmá jehla
To the left in the S wall to the ledge and diagonally left to the ring. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Šikmá jehla
To the right of the NW edge along the cracks, higher up left along the edge into the 'Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger
3
Šikmá jehla
From the upland side between the rock blocks to the S balcony and left in the S wall via… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Andezit
To the right of the start of the 'Old Route' from the S, up a short wall to the ledge of… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay

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