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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Deltaplán
Up the left valley edge to a platform and then a steep climb to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Deltaplán
From the plateau side, descend briefly right and up a slabby ramp to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Deltaplán
From the plateau side, left over a small pillar to a platform and then a steep climb to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Vodní zdroj
Up the wall to the ledge, right and via the corner crack to the rappel point of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Vodní zdroj
To the left of "Svěcená voda", directly up the wall over the overhang and three BHs to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hodinový hotel
Clock Hotel (approx. 200m left of Water Source) - up the valley wall via the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Vodní zdroj
In the right part of the wall, from the slope directly over the BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Vodní zdroj
In the valley wall, via the corner to the BH balcony, up the wall to the second BH and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Vodní zdroj
From the third BH of the "Suchá slza" route, diagonally left below the roof to the fourth… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Vodní zdroj
In the middle of the wall, via an overhanging crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Vodní zdroj
Up the wall and over the overhang to the 1st BH, straight to the 2nd BH, and via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Arkáda
In the middle of the massif, up the wall with an overhanging start and the wall to K. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Arkáda
From the stream, up the overhanging wall via four BHs below the roof. Through the roof… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Vodní zdroj
Five meters from the left valley chimney, over the overhang and higher up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10-/10
Vodní zdroj
To the left of the "Česká střecha" route, via a small pinnacle to the ledge and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10-/10
Vodní zdroj
Through the middle of the valley wall directly via three BHs below the roof, left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Vodní zdroj
Up the wall to the left of the Kalina route directly to the 1st BH, diagonally right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Ivanova oblá jehla (Jubilejní věž)
Narrow SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Krümmerwand
Round valley edge over a notch into the lace ironstone and a long traverse left into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ivanova oblá jehla (Jubilejní věž)
Chimney between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Ivanova oblá jehla (Jubilejní věž)
From the massif by jump n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Krümmerwand
Directly through the crack into the crack of the "Czech Pilgrimage Route" and through it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Velký arnoltický kámen
Blunt edge, or overhang in the left part of the valley wall to the balcony. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Ivanova oblá jehla (Jubilejní věž)
To the left of the plateau path, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Velký arnoltický kámen
Overhanging wall to the left of the valley edge over BH and stepped edge (at exit hours)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Velký arnoltický kámen
Overhanging wall to the crack and through it to the ledge. Up and right to the next ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Ivanova oblá jehla (Jubilejní věž)
1m to the right of the rappel, directly up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Ivanova oblá jehla (Jubilejní věž)
Along the left plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Ivanova oblá jehla (Jubilejní věž)
In the right part of the NE wall, like a falcon to the end, left over the overhang and up… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Ivanova oblá jehla (Jubilejní věž)
In the left part of the valley wall, overhang into a recess and the left overhanging edge… Rock Climbing

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