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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Via the chimney from W to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Along the N valley edge over 4 BH to the ledge. Left to 3. K of the Sušenka route, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Like the Malá bukovina route to the ring. To its right directly up the wall over a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věž Suché Kamenice
From the plateau side traverse along the ledge left into the middle of the NW wall to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Left of the "Old Route" up the wall to K. Left along the edge to the ledge and left via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Věž Suché Kamenice
Through the left part of the W wall directly (crossing the Rodeo route) over the ring to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Right of the "Forced Labour" route via a narrow gully and wall 1BH, above it diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hanoj
Up the overhanging valley wall over 2 bolts and hourglasses to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
La pláž
Through the center of the valley wall directly over three bolts and an overhang, from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Houbařský kámen
In the northeast wall (by building up) into a hole and over further holes to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Houbařský kámen
Left in the northeast wall diagonally left via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Houbařský kámen
Along the northwest ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Houbařský kámen
Right of the route "On Fingers" directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Houbařský kámen
Through the center of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
8-/8
La pláž
Right in the main (NW) wall directly over 2 bolts to the 3rd bolt, from the right through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Houbařský kámen
About 3m left of the "NW Ridge" via a short wall to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
10-/10
La pláž
Left of Minima via a short wall to the ledge and crack to the first bolt, then by a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Houbařský kámen
Right of the "East Ridge" via a narrow yellow wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Houbařský kámen
Left in the south wall diagonally left and up the overgrown southwest wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Houbařský kámen
Through the center of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Houbařský kámen
Start like "East Ridge", then traverse diagonally left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Houbařský kámen
From the left onto the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Houbařský kámen
Directly over the overhang to the edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Principál
Subsector Suchá Kamenice. Along the left upper edge (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Principál
From the saddle between the towers, traverse right into the SE wall, there via a small… Rock Climbing
6-
Principál
In the left part of the N wall, from the boulder, traverse right to the K. 2m up, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Šašek
From the East to the saddle between "Šašek" (Jester) and "Principál" (Principal), along… Rock Climbing
3
Šašek
From the saddle, directly up the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Šašek
From the West, via a chimney to a block below the S wall and along the SW edge to the… Rock Climbing
3
Principál
From the East to the saddle between the towers and up the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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