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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Země zázraků
To the left of the 'Wonderland' route, up a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Země zázraků
To the left of the "Supernatural" route, up a corner over 2 bolts below the overhang.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Země zázraků
Directly up the left valley edge over 4 bolts to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Štamprle
In the right part of the wall, up a corner and a small crack to the bolt, from the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Štamprle
Directly up the overhanging edge over the bolt to the summit and right to the balcony for… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Dirkštajn
From the plateau side, up a crack to the balcony, traverse right, and up a small wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dirkštajn
To the left of the Old Route, up a small wall to the balcony and left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Štamprle
Up the wall to the ledge to the bolt. Directly through the depression to the ledges and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Köttewitzká stěna
Via the path "Podzim v Labském údolí" (Autumn in the Elbe Valley) to the ledge, right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Köttewitzká stěna
Through the middle of the J pillar over K to the balcony and along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Köttewitzká stěna
In the right part of the massif, by crack to the ledge and to the 1st K, along the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Köttewitzká stěna
To the right of "Podzim v Labáku" (Autumn in Labák), along the wall over 3 BH, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Köttewitzká stěna
As "Údolní spára" (Valley crack) to the ledge, left along the wall to K and by crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Köttewitzká stěna
In the left part of the valley side at a small pillar, by crack to the ledge. By crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Köttewitzká stěna
To the right of the small pillar, along the wall over K to the ledge. Along the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Köttewitzká stěna
In the left part of the massif, straight up the wall over 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Köttewitzká stěna
In the large corner on the south side, by double crack to the balcony and via the path … Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6+/7-
Trdelník
To the right of the J edge of the wall over K and higher to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Köttewitzká stěna
In the middle of the valley wall, via corner and crack to the ledge. By crack over K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Trdelník
Due to a disruption, from the lower edge and along it (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Trdelník
Up the wall along the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7-/7
Trdelník
Via the North wall over 2 BH to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Trdelník
Through the middle of the SW wall to the right of the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6
Trdelník
Up the wall from the right along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Trdelník
To the left on the uphill side from the fore-peak to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Eisenhower
Up the wall from the left to the 1st BH, directly to the 2nd BH, higher up by crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Eisenhower
To the right of the Valley Crack, up the wall via 3 BH directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Eisenhower
In the middle of the valley wall via a crack to the balcony in the niche and via a corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Dubová hlava
To the right in the valley wall, via the S edge to the ledge under the overhang. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Dubová hlava
Through the middle of the short uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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