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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Seismograf
In the right part of the South Face via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Seismograf
From the W via a notch to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Seismograf
From the valley through cracks, a crack and the wall directly over 7 BH into a crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Čihadlo
Plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Ztráta času
Wall directly over the 1st BH to the 2nd BH, right and over the 3rd - 5th BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Ztráta času
In the right part of the massif, wall into the curved crack, through it and higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Čihadlo
Middle of the S wall to the ledge and traverse right to the edge. Rock Climbing
6
Čihadlo
From the right, wall to the edge. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Ztráta času
To the left of the Po vopici route, wall directly over 2 BH into holes and to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Visuté zahrady
On the S side about 4 m to the right of the corner, up a crack to the top (rappel point… Rock Climbing
6-
Čihadlo
To the right of the SW edge, wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Visuté zahrady
On the S side to the right of the Protektor route, through the middle of the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Čihadlo
Valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Čihadlo
From the block below the N edge to the left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Čihadlo
N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Čihadlo
NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Visuté zahrady
In the right Z wall, right (SW) edge over 2 BH, later wall to the left through holes to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Visuté zahrady
From BH Autumn Butterflies traverse right to the crack. Through it, higher up the wall to… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Visuté zahrady
In the right Z wall to the right of the narrow chimney, through the middle of the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Visuté zahrady
In the right Z wall, direct with the left edge over BH to the top for rappelling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Visuté zahrady
On the south side through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Visuté zahrady
From the S side along the edge of the narrow left overhanging pillar over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Visuté zahrady
From the stance below the left W wall (bolt), directly up over 2 bolts to the summit (to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Visuté zahrady
From the stance below the left W wall (bolt), left up the rib and up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Země zázraků
To the right of the Samodruhá route, up the wall over 3 bolts for rappelling. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Země zázraků
To the right of the Bonita route, up a corner along a thin crack, later a wider crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Země zázraků
To the right of the 'Oh, misery of life...' route, directly up the wall over 2 bolts for… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Země zázraků
To the right of the 'Amazing Thing' crack, up the wall (5 bolts) for rappelling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Země zázraků
Left adjacent massif. South face (photo red line) Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Země zázraků
To the right of the 'System Error' route, up a corner and along a thin falcon-like crack… Rock Climbing

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