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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Emerson
In the left part of the SE wall via an overhanging wall over BH, higher via a cut to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Emerson
To the left of the 'Tracks in the Snow' route via the wall directly over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Emerson
Along the right valley edge (BH) and the slabby wall to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Hradní kužel
From the boulder below the upper (N) edge briefly under the overhang and via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Hradní kužel
Like the Valley Route via a corner to the end and further to the boulder. Like Fompe's… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Hradní kužel
Approach from the path below the tower. Via a corner below the W edge to a balcony and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Hradní kužel
From SE via a corner between the tower and the massif to a platform in the massif,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Hradní kužel
SE wall to the catwalk and through the middle of the wall into the horizontal cut of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Emerson
In the right part of the SE wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Hradní kužel
From the massif via a drop and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hradní kužel
Like the 'SE Route' to the beginning of the chimney, up it to a ledge and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Háta
In the North wall via a narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Háta
To the left of the Tired Monday route, through the middle of the valley South wall via a… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Hradní kužel
In the NW wall to a ledge, traverse right beyond the edge to a small platform and via… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Háta
To the left of the South Crack via the wall slightly left, higher along the edge via BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Háta
In the right part of the North wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Háta
In the right part of the valley (S) wall via the wall (BH) and along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Háta
Along the W edge through the wall via BH and higher via a small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Kočičí vyhlídka
Up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Kočičí vyhlídka
To the left of the Central Chimney along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Kočičí vyhlídka
Up the West face over K to the summit of the main tower. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Kočičí vyhlídka
Along the edge and ridge to the summit, to the main summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kočičí vyhlídka
Through the middle of the valley face of the main tower. Up the wall and gully over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
5+
Kočičí vyhlídka
Left of the Central Chimney, up the pillar over K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kočičí vyhlídka
Along the SW edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Kočičí vyhlídka
Along the left valley edge of the pillar to its summit and over the overhanging steps to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
5
Kočičí vyhlídka
Up the wall to the left of the route 'Left SE Chimney' along the crack and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Kočičí vyhlídka
Left of the route 'And we go on...', up the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Kočičí vyhlídka
In the left part of the SE face, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Kočičí vyhlídka
Up the right SE face via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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