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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Sicilská stěna
Through the corner crack, later via the gully running to the right over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Sicilská stěna
To the right of the "Vendeta" route, over the hourglass and 4 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Sicilská stěna
Via the "Vendetta" route 2 m up and left to the ring. Along the edge and up the wall (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Sicilská stěna
To the left of the "Vendetta" crack, up the overhanging wall over 6 BH to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Sicilská stěna
In the right part of the wall, along the crack and through the fissure to its end.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
9/9+
Sicilská stěna
Through the overhanging crack and up the wall over 6 BH to the 7th BH. From there, go up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10+/11-
Sicilská stěna
From the 4th BH of the "Al Capone" route, go up and right into the hole (BH) and further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Sicilská stěna
From the 7th BH, diagonally right almost to the 6th BH of "Toothless Yuchen" and back to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Sicilská stěna
From the 4th BH of the "Dangerous Ascent" route, go left and up the wall over 3 BH into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Sicilská stěna
Through the chimney at the base of the wall to the pinnacle, from there into a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
Sicilská stěna
From the 2nd ring of the "Bestseller" path, directly through the crack and right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Sicilská stěna
From the block left of "Italian Capriccio" up the overhanging wall and along the crack (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Sicilská stěna
Via the "Celery" path to the 3rd ring of the "Bestseller" path and right into the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10
Sicilská stěna
To the right of "Italian Capriccio" up the wall over 4 BH and from the left along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Sicilská stěna
To the right of the start of the "Stormy Etna" path up the wall below the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Sicilská stěna
Along the "With Celery" path under the overhang, briefly right and directly over it (1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Sicilská stěna
From the first ring of the path "With celery" directly via BH to the 3rd ring of the path… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Sicilská stěna
Between Indian and Sicilian wall through the chimney to the balcony and E wall over 2 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Sicilská stěna
In the corner between Indian and Sicilian wall from the balcony to the left of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Sicilská stěna
In the corner between Indian and Sicilian wall through the chimney over the balcony… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Indián
Along the "Fiery Water" path over 3 BH to the ramp, along it left to the left edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Indián
In the E wall to the right of the "Fiery Water" path, up the wall over 6 BH directly to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Indián
E wall over 3 BH and right to the edge. Along it (3 K) to the ramp. Arbitrarily to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Indián
Right from the valley through the corner to the balcony (1st BH). Traverse left and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Indián
To the left of the NE edge through a crack to the pulpit and up the valley wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Indián
Along the valley edge over 5 BH to the 3rd K of the "Last Shot" path. Along it to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Indián
Through the circle directly to the 1st K of "The Last Shot". Through it to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Sierra madre
To the right of the "Cao News" path up the wall over 5 BH to the belay. BH of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Sierra madre
To the right of the El Camino del Rey path along the blunt edge (1st BH), from the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Sierra madre
In the right part of the terrace along the crack (1st BH) and up the wall to the 2nd BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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