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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Pivní kámen
Double stance at the E edge to K and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Pivní kámen
At the left edge of the E wall past K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Pivní kámen
From the start of the "East Wall" route, directly up the wall past K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Pivní kámen
From K of the route "East Wall" directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Pivní kámen
From the center of the NE wall diagonally right past K to the N edge (BH) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Pivní kámen
Along the right edge of the NE wall past 4 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Pivní kámen
Left on the N wall via a crack (K), then diagonally left along the small cracks and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Pivní kámen
Follow the route "Owls in the Head" to its 1st K and from there directly up the wall past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Pivní kámen
Up the W wall along the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Pivní kámen
Up the N wall from the right past 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Pivní kámen
By standing in the chimney between the tower and the adjacent block, and via that to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4-
Pivní kámen
From K diagonally left and then along the crack running to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Pivní kámen
Through the middle of the W wall past K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Pivní kámen
To the right of the "Flat Track", up the wall past K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Pivní kámen
From W diagonally right up the wall past 2 BH to a large block (abseil BH) and via the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Pivní tácek
Through the middle of the E wall via a hole to BH and to the summit (abseil). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
?
Pivní kámen
From S to the rock block and then jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Pivní kámen
Right up the SW wall past 2 BH to the large block and as "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Pivní kámen
To the right of the Prvňáček route, with a swing up onto the slab and then left into the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Pivní tácek
In the middle of the upper wall via a hole to BH and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Pivní tácek
To the right of the SE edge, via the rib past 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Pivní tácek
Along the right upper (S) edge past 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
Pivní tácek
In the right part of the upper side along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Pivní tácek
Right on the W wall via a shallow groove (BH) and right along the rounded edge past 2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Pivní tácek
To the left of the route "Beer Carousel", directly up the wall past BH to the 2nd BH of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Pivní tácek
To the right of the "Beer Hunger" route, along the rounded SW edge upwards (BH) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Pivní tácek
To the right of the "Pivárium" route, via the corner to the 1st BH. Diagonally left along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Pivní tácek
Right of the route "Nealko.." up the wall (BH) to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Pivní tácek
Left in the W wall via holes to the summit and right to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Filuta
Along the valley (N) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay

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