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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Mistr
Right of the "Crack Chimney" along the blunt edge over 2 BH and hourglass to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Mistr
From the 2nd BH of the route "Creative Solution", up the wall to the right of the chimney… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Mistr
Left of the "Crack Chimney" up the wall over 4 BH and further directly to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4+
Mistr
In the corner between the left pillar and the central wall via a crack, higher up via a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Havraní jehla
Left of the route "Memory of Ruda" up the wall over 3K n. v. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Mistr
Left of the edge of the left pillar up the wall over 3 BH and further along the blunt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Havraní jehla
Up the narrow S wall to the SW edge and left to the 1st K. (Standing) onto the edge and… Rock Climbing
6
Havraní jehla
Up the V-wall diagonally left into a crack and through it to K. Right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Mistr
Along the edge of the left pillar over 3 K to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Havraní jehla
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Havraní stěna
Up the narrow V-wall directly over 2 BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Havraní jehla
Start from the "Expo 65" route directly along the edge over 2 BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Havraní jehla
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Havraní stěna
In the large corner by "Raven's Needle" directly up the wall to the 1st BH, diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Havraní stěna
From the chimney between Raven's Needle and Raven's Wall, left to the 1st BH and then up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Havraní stěna
From the gully behind Raven's Needle, briefly up a crack and left up the pillar over 3 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Havraní stěna
On the SW side, from the area behind the blocks near Raven's Needle, about 4m left of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7+/8-
Havraní stěna
Along the rounded and slabby edge between the chimneys (right of "Baba Nam Kevalam") to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6-
Havraní stěna
From the start of the Zilvar from the Poorhouse route, up the wall over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Havraní stěna
Start from the right from the block. Up the S wall along the holes to the left to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Havraní stěna
From the 2nd K of the route "The Day After" directly up the wall over "10 Tramp Years" (3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Havraní stěna
Left on the S wall via an overhanging wall to the 1st K. Diagonally left to the 2nd K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Havraní stěna
Left of the route "The Day After", directly (K) up the overhanging wall, slightly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Havraní stěna
From the 1st K of the route The Day After, along the left side over 2 BH to the 2nd K of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Havraní stěna
Left of the route "Ten Tramp Years" up the wall over 2 K to the 1st K of the route "Ten… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6-
Havraní stěna
SW edge into a crack and through it to a ledge (K). Further left via an overhanging crack… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Havraní stěna
Completely to the right on the valley side, up the face via 2 BH and a sling to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Havraní stěna
From the right, up the face and edge into the Ronda crack, along it via K to the end, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Havraní stěna
To the right of "Ronda", up the face into a small crack and through it into a hole. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Havraní stěna
To the right of the "Valley Chimney", up the corner crack over the overhang and further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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