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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Tvář
From the last BH of the 'Rapl' route, straight up the wall to the summit to the lower-off… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Tvář
Right overhanging edge via 6 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Tvář
Left up the chimney (BH) and corner to the 2nd BH. Traverse right (3rd BH). Up the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Tvář
Start via the 'Dirty Girl' route over 4 BH and then right into the corner below a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Tvář
Center of the wall via 6 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Tvář
Via the route "Face to Face" above the 3rd BH into the corner. Right up the wall via 3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Diktátor
Between the routes "Kingdom of Laughter" and "Sour Ass" on the wall via BH, 4 K, and BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Diktátor
Completely to the right in the valley wall, up the corner to a ledge and traverse left.…
6
Diktátor
To the right of the route 'Eyes for Crying' up the wall via 3 K to an overgrown ledge (to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Diktátor
Center of the wall via 8 BH to the belay ring K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Diktátor
Start via the "Full of Optimism" route to the 1st BH, then traverse left along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10-/10
Diktátor
From the 5th BH of the "Weakest, You're Fired" route, diagonally right up the wall via 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Diktátor
To the left of the "Sour Ass" route, up the wall, over an overhang, a corner, an edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10-/10
Diktátor
From the 1st BH of the "Old Affair" route, right beyond the edge into the lower wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Diktátor
Between Baldrick and Dictator, up the chimney for a few meters and right to the 1st BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Baldrick
From the rappel BH of the "Blind Alley" route, via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Baldrick
Up the chimney between Dictator and Baldrick via 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Baldrick
To the right over an overhang and up the wall via 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Baldrick
To the left of the "Blind Alley" route, up the wall via 7 BH to the 1st BH of the Exit… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Baldrick
Up the middle of the wall under the overhang (sling) and left over it (K) to 2nd K. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
10-/10
Baldrick
From the 5th BH, along the edge directly to the 6th BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Baldrick
From 2nd K, via BH directly to 3rd K and further as the original to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Baldrick
Start via the original "Black Adder" route to the 2nd BH, then directly up the wall via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Baldrick
To the right of the corner between Devil's Wall and Baldrick, via a recess and a short… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Baldrick
In the left part of the wall, up a corner and right via 2 BH to a blunt edge to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Baldrick
Up the corner of the "Black Adder" route and left via a crack (BH), later a fissure (3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Ďáblova stěna
All the way to the right in the W wall, via a chimney and a crack in the corner (4 BH) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Ďáblova stěna
From the base of the wall, just to the right of the NW edge, up a corner and along cracks… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Ďáblova stěna
In the middle of the W wall, via a crack to K and directly up the wall (2 BH) to an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9/9+
Baldrick
Ascend along the left edge of Baldrick and like the route "With Gusto" to 4 BH, and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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