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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Malý ďábel
From the terrace along a small crack and up the wall (2 BH) to the 3rd BH. Right and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Malý ďábel
To the right of the 'Forbidden Crack' route, up the wall via 4 BH and to the right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Malý ďábel
From the 3rd BH of the 'Evasive Maneuver' route, slightly from the left via BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Malý ďábel
Like 'Forbidden Crack' to the pulpit and further up the wall via BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Malý ďábel
From the 2nd BH of the 'Viagra' route, directly to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Malý ďábel
Up the wall to the right of the 'Kolenovrt' route, via 3 BH to the pulpit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Malý ďábel
To the left on the S terrace via a falconer's crack (using protection from the 'Forbidden… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Malý ďábel
To the left of the 'Kolenovrt' route's crack, up the wall (2 BH). Diagonally right into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Malý ďábel
To the right of the 'Chambermaid Swing' route, diagonally right up the wall via 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Malý ďábel
On the left edge of the S terrace, up a wide crack via K to a recess (rappelling point),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
10
Malý ďábel
Briefly up the crack like the 'Chambermaid Swing' route and diagonally left up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Malý ďábel
On the left side of the S face, up the chimney via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
11
Malý ďábel
To the right of the route "East German Correctional" via a crack, wall, and edge over 4…
9+
Malý ďábel
From the 2nd BH of the 'Out of Pottenstein' route, diagonally right up the wall via 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Malý ďábel
Start from the block at the far left of the massif. Up the rounded edge and to the right,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Černý Petr
Right in the Z-wall via a short edge (BH) and up the wall via the 2nd BH and hourglass to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Černý Petr
Up the corner via the 1st BH to a ledge. Left via the overhanging edge (2nd BH) and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Černý Petr
Like "Black Magic" to the ledge. Right to the BH and up the wall to the 3rd BH of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Černý Petr
Right edge of the Z-wall via 3 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Černý Petr
Left of the "Quartet" route via 3 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Černý Petr
On the valley side, right of the corner, in the V-shaped wall via a crack over BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Černý Petr
Completely to the left in the Z-wall via 2 BH and diagonally right to the 3rd BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Černý Petr
Center of the Z-wall via 3 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Černý Petr
Left in the Z-wall via 3 BH directly to the 3rd BH of the 'Hard End' route and along it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Černý Petr
Center of the valley wall, left of "Hop or Drop" via 5 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Černý Petr
In the valley wall, up the corner, then a narrow crack/chimney and wall into a hole, and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Černý Petr
From the 2nd BH of the "El Niño" route, left and via 6 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Černý Petr
In the valley wall, briefly up the corner and traverse left to the 1st BH. Then along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Černý Petr
To the left on the valley side via a wide crack (1st BH) up to a wedged stone. Right (2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Tvář
From the last BH of the 'Rapl' route, straight up the wall to the summit to the lower-off… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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