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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Brusinková věž
In the center of the E wall between the “Old Route” and the “East Crack” to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Brusinková věž
Right in the S wall over the overhang and up the wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Cimrman
In the left part of the W wall over 3 BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Brusinková věž
Right in the uphill wall via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Cimrman
Through the center of the overhanging iron-rich W wall over 2 BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Cimrman
To the right of the route “To Our Nations” along the edge over K and BH and along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Cimrman
Through the center of the NE wall to the ledge (1st BH) and over the overhang (2nd BH).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Samson
In the left part of the wall over BHs to the rappel BH of the route “Nerves in a bucket”. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Cimrman
In the valley wall over 4 BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Samson
Through the right part of the wall (2 BHs) and traverse left to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Malý ďábel
Left of the SE edge up the wall, step left and via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2
Malý ďábel
Via the gully in the E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Malý ďábel
Via the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4+
Malý ďábel
Left in the S wall briefly upwards, left above the overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Malý ďábel
On the left uphill side from the rock over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Malý ďábel
In the uphill wall, traverse left along the ledge into the valley N wall, and to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Malý ďábel
Via the rib near the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Malý ďábel
In the uphill wall, traverse left along the ledge into the valley N wall. Via the crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7-/7
Malý ďábel
To the left of 'Optical Illusion', up the overhanging wall via 2 K to the 4th BH of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6-
Malý ďábel
In the W wall of the massif, via the right corner crack to the terrace. Freely to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Malý ďábel
In the right part of the W face, diagonally left to the 1st BH and up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Malý ďábel
Up the overhanging wall to the right of the Chimney via 3 K to the terrace. Freely to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Malý ďábel
Up the slimy chimney in the center of the W face to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Malý ďábel
Up the overhanging wall to the right of the valley edge via 2 BH to the 3rd BH of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Malý ďábel
From both right and left along the valley edge and higher up from the right up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Malý ďábel
Up the left edge of the chimney in the W face briefly, then diagonally left up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Malý ďábel
To the left of the 'Tvrdolín' route, up the corner (2 BH) to a ledge and slightly right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Malý ďábel
Up the valley edge and left to the 1st BH of 'Tvrdolín'. From the right, up the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Malý ďábel
To the left of the valley edge, up the overhanging iron-rich wall via 4 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Malý ďábel
From the balcony, directly up the wall via 2 BH to the ledge at the 4th BH of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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