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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Mount Žleb
In the right part of the East wall, up the wall below the overhang (1st bolt). Over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Mount Žleb
To the right of the “Monkey at the Wheel” route, up the wall (1st bolt) onto a large… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Mount Žleb
In the left part of the East wall via 5 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Misionář
From the start of the Valley Corner route, diagonally right over two ledges to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Fráterník
To the left via the NW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Misionář
From the NW corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Misionář
Up the middle of the main NW pillar via 3 bolts to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Misionář
To the left of the Valley Corner via a crack and up the wall over 3 rings and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Misionář
To the right of the start of the Valley Corner, up the wall along the rounded edge into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Synagoga
Up the chimney in the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Synagoga
Via the overhanging face (3 bolts) and corner to the 2nd K of the Miloš the Lumberjack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Synagoga
To the right of the "Father's Day" route, up the wall and overhang (7 bolt hangers) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Rioja
Access from the south side of the Synagogue, to the right of the School Chimney. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8/8+
Samotářka
Through the center of the wall via 4 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Samotářka
In the right part of the wall via 4 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Krabice na sušenky
To the right on the N face to a block and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
10+/11-
Krabice na sušenky
Along the left valley edge via 5 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Samotářka
In the left part of the wall via 3 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Krabice na sušenky
Through the center of the N face via two ledges to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Krabice na sušenky
Through the center of the S face along a diagonal crack diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Zub
Through the center of the E face via 2 bolt hangers to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Zub
Up the S face diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
6
Krabice na sušenky
In the left part of the E face via a bolt hanger to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2
Zub
From the fore-rock via the slabby NW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Zub
Via the overhanging SW edge and slabby face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang
7/7+
Zub
Up the S face diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
2+
Zub
To the right of the "Hiking" route, an overhang from the fore-rock to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Věž Jílového potoka
Through the center of the SE face via a hole and a small rib to a ledge, traverse 2m left… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4+
Věž Jílového potoka
Start under the right part of the upper wall. Up the wall and corner under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Věž Jílového potoka
Up the chimney of the "East Route" to the plateau and traverse right to the N side of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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