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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Orlík
As "Půlnoční rebel" to the 2nd K and directly overhanging wall over 2 BH to the ledge for… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Úderník
Center of the W wall over 2 BH and the clock left to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Úderník
Overhanging valley wall over 2 BH, higher up to the left to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Orlík
Left of the route "Půlnoční rebel" (Midnight Rebel) from the fore-rock through a crack (K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Úderník
Along the overhanging edge over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Osvobozenec
From the 2nd BH of route 4Eva, wall to the right to the 3rd BH and directly over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Úderník
Left part of the W wall directly to the 1st BH and along the edge to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Úderník
In the middle of the SW wall from the terrace through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Úderník
Left above the lower block along the edge over 3 BH and further up the wall (loop) over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Strážce Jílového dolu
From the center of the SW wall to the right to the falcon's nest and up to the 1st K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Osvobozenec
Center of the wall over 2 BH, then slightly left over 2 BH, overhang to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Strážce Jílového dolu
On the edge of the chimney between the tower and the massif on the balcony at the W edge.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Strážce Jílového dolu
Left part of the valley face over 7 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Strážce Jílového dolu
From the clock along the edge below the summit head, left wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Strážce Jílového dolu
Center of the valley face over 2 K directly into the gully of the "Comic Traverse" and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Strážce Jílového dolu
In the right part of the valley face, over the 1st K to the ledge of the Comic Traverse … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Strážce Jílového dolu
Like the "Old Route" to the small balcony and left to the K. Up the face to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Strážce Jílového dolu
To the right in the valley face, up the face and via a crack diagonally left to the 1st K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Strážce Jílového dolu
Start on the edge, to the ledge, traverse left to the crack and up it to the K of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Divoká stěna
In the right part of the massif, directly up the face to the 1st K and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Strážce Jílového dolu
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the small balcony at the North… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Divoká stěna
Via the route "Unbearable Individualists" into the rib, along it about halfway to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Kryštof
At the right valley edge, over a small overhang to the balcony. To the right via a crack … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Kryštof
Via the overhanging face to the right of the route "That's easy" to the ledge (1st BH).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Kryštof
Via the valley crack (3 BH) over two overhangs and to the right along the edge (3 BH) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Kryštof
To the left of the route "Climbing means being free" up the face and further along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Kryštof
From the 1st BH of the route "Climbing means being free" up the face over an overhang and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Kryštof
To the left in the valley face over two overhangs and further up the face and left along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Kryštof
To the left in the valley face along the small corner (1st BH) to the balcony in the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Nalepená věž
Center of the valley face over 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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