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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Kulich
From the balcony on the valley side to the right to the 1st K. Further over 3 K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Kulich
In the right part of the S face, up a crack to a detached block. Up the crack to the end… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Kulich
To the left of "Svatební noc" up the face diagonally left over 5 BH to the 1st K of … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Kulich
From the middle of the fore-rock diagonally right into a gully and through it under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Kulich
From the fore-rock through the middle of the face via a corner, face, and finally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Kulich
To the right of the Kulišárna route over 3 BH to the 4th BH of the Kulišárna route and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kulich
To the left of the "Křehké vztahy" route up the face via BH, K, 3 BH and 2nd K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Kulich
From the left of the fore-rock traverse left to the 1st K. Through the crack via the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Kulich
From the face left of the edge over 8 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Kulich
To the right of Dolní Zjeb through the corner (1st BH), over the overhang (2nd BH) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Kulich
From the fore-rock, briefly like "Dělící čára", and then directly up the face over 4 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Mezikus
To the right of Siloměr from the fore-rock left up the face via 3 BH and right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Kulich
As 'Dolní Zjeb' to the 3rd BH. Up and diagonally left into the corner. Diagonally right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Kulich
From the 7th BH of 'Con mucho.. .' diagonally right up the overhanging face via BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Mezikus
From the start of 'Siloměr', traverse left to the middle of the face (1st BH), in an arc… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Mezikus
In the middle of the valley face through a crack to the 1st BH. To the right through an… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Mezikus
As 'První vlaštovka' to the 3rd BH. Traverse right and straight up the face over 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Mezikus
Start in the corner like the 'Siloměr' route and left to the 1st BH, then further left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Mezikus
As an "Outsider" via BH to the rim, traverse right around the edge and along it over 3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Mezikus
Start left of the route "Outsider". Wall directly over BH to the 1st K, further up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Mezikus
Left of the S edge up the wall over 2 BH, K and BH to the ledge. Wall diagonally right … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Orlík
Right chimney and left to the ledge at the 1st K. Through the crack over 2 K and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Orlík
About 4 meters to the right of the route 'Nádhera' up the wall over 7 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Orlík
Shortly up the chimney and left to the 1st BH. Wall directly over the 2nd BH to the 1st K… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Orlík
From the last BH of the route "Odcházení" (Departure) through a hollow over BH and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Orlík
Valley edge over 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Orlík
Right of the Mandalax route up the wall over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Orlík
Left of "Cesta povolávacích rozkazů" (Conscription Orders Route) wall (2 K) and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Orlík
Right of "Cesta povolávacích rozkazů" (Conscription Orders Route) directly up the wall (K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Orlík
From the blocks in the valley wall, step over to the wall (BH), along a falcon's nest and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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