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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Březnová věž
To the left of "Short Gully", over the overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Březnová věž
About 4m to the left of "Old Route" up the gully. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Březnová věž
2m to the right of "5000 Volts", up the small wall into the gully and by it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Březnová věž
To the right in the plateau wall up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Březnová věž
About 4m to the right of "Plateau Crack" up the wall. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Březnová věž
From the upper side to the left into the E wall and up the dirty corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Březnová věž
To the left of "Plateau Crack" via the rib. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Březnová věž
Up the crack below the rappel. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Březnová věž
Up the eastern wall along the right edge (BH) and over another 3 BH diagonally right into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Březnová věž
From the 2nd K of the route "Edge of Storms", straight up the edge over K and BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Březnová věž
Up the SE edge over 2 K to the plateau, traverse right and up the crack to a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Březnová věž
Follow the route "Export of Communists" above the 3rd K and to the right up the wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Březnová věž
Follow the route "Stairs to Hell" to the beginning of the large corner above the 1st K of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Březnová věž
To the left of the route "Export of Communists", up the wall over 5 BH to the K of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Březnová věž
To the left of "Edge of Storms", up the wall (3 K) and further to the K of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Březnová věž
From the terrace in the valley wall diagonally right and along the small cracks (K) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Březnová věž
From the base of the valley wall to the terrace and up the purple crack below the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Březnová věž
From the terrace (BH) 2m up like "Enchanted Desire" and up the overhanging, right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Březnová věž
10 m to the right of the route "Please do not knock", up the slabby wall on the left side… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Březnová věž
From the balcony to the left of the route "Enchanted Desire", up the edge over 3 BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Březnová věž
To the right of the route "Please do not knock", up the wall into the corner below the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Březnová věž
Completely to the left in the valley wall along the crack and diagonally left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Kulich
To the right of the Bolek route, up the face and overhanging edge via 4 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Březnová věž
To the left of the route "Strach má..." up the face (BH) and overhanging edge (2 BH) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Březnová věž
In the valley wall to the left, up the wall (3 BH) into the corner. Traverse left over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Kulich
In the left part of the face (right of the corner) over 4 BH to the right to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Kulich
Up the narrow E face over 2 K into a small crack. Through it to the 3rd K and up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Kulich
Through the middle of the face over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Kulich
Along the SE edge via K and traverse right onto a ledge and up the face to the 1st K of … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Kulich
Start via the "Zbyňkův originál" route to the 1st K and directly up the edge further over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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