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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Vojtěch
Left in the plateau wall via 2 K to the 3rd K and traverse left beyond the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Vojtěch
At the SE edge (by bridging/standing) onto the balcony and traverse right to K. (By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Vojtěch
From the 3rd K of the "Unfulfilled Ambitions" route, directly up the wall via the 4th K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Vojtěch
From the plateau side, right to the edge of the massif and hand-over-hand along the E… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Vojtěch
Along the left valley edge to the 1st K of the "Direct Northern Route". Up the wall via 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Vojtěch
Via the "Northern Route" to the edge and directly (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Vojtěch
From the east, via the crack to the end (1st K) and up the wall, higher up the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Vojtěch
To the left in the valley wall, diagonally left to the edge and along it to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Vojtěch
Up the valley (N) wall via K directly to the overhang of the 'Cat Wall'. Through it over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Vojtěch
From the ledge above the 2nd K, traverse right into the crack and then to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Vojtěch
Via the 'Kocour's Variant' route over the 1st K under the overhang, over it from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Vojtěch
From the ledge on the SW side, up the wall to a crack, through it and left to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Vojtěch
Ascent from the ledge on the SW side. Along the edge directly to the ledge to the 1st K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Vojtěch
From the base, up the W edge to a ledge. Up the wall over 2 K to the K of the 'West Edge'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Vojtěch
To the right on the N wall to a ledge near the edge and diagonally left up the wall under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Urna
Up the center of the wall (1st BH) and right of the small corner (2nd BH) directly to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Urna
In the left part of the wall over 2 BH to the rappel K. Up the inclined slab to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Urna
Along the right edge from the valley over 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Rumunská stěna
In the right part of the massif, via a crack to its end. Left up the wall to a blunt edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Rumunská stěna
Via the 1st K of the 'Banat Edge', higher up to the right in the middle of the wall (2 K)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7+/8-
Rumunská stěna
In the left part of the wall directly over 3 BH is the 2nd K of the 'Carpathian Games'… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Rumunská stěna
Up the right part of the wall directly over 4 BH to the K of the 'Bucharest Diary' route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Rumunská stěna
Up the center of the wall over 2 K and BH into a crack. Through it to a ledge (K) and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Rumunská stěna
Up the wall along the left edge (2 K) to the pre-summit balcony. Freely to the summit to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Vinohrad
Right part of the massif. Up the left part of the wall first directly (2 BH) and then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Rumunská stěna
Ascent via the left edge like 'Venetian Edge' left to the 1st BH and along the edge of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Vinohrad
Right of the 'Špunt' route via a corner, then left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Vinohrad
In the central part of the massif, right of the 'January Notch' route, up the wall via 5… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Vinohrad
In the middle of the wall, via a prominent crack to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Hnojový dům
In the right part of the wall, about 6 m right of 'Wasp Swarm', via a notch to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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