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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Skříň
From the circle "Variant of Magician's Birthday" right along the rib over 2 K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Skříň
From the middle of the S wall over 4 K to the traverse of the "Weekend 69" route, then to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Skříň
From 3. K directly along the edge into the horizontal notch under the overhang. Briefly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Skříň
In the right part of the W face, via the corner (K) under the overhang (2. K). From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Skříň
From the balcony, via the right corner to 2. K (Ufo Obrworks 0, 75). Directly as "Brain… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
?
Skříň
From the saddle, up the rib in the massif to K. Jump to the ledge at the SW edge (2. K)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Skříň
From the gully, left around the SW edge into the crack and up it under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Skříň
Like the "South route" to the hourglasses and further by hand traversing to the SW edge … Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Skříň
In the middle of the plateau face, via the pillar into the horizontal notch (hourglasses)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Skříň
Like the "Key to the plateau edge" into the notch. Up the face diagonally left via 2 K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
10-/10
Skříň
From the boulder of the old route, diagonally left over the BH to the hourglasses of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Skříň
Via the "Old route" into the horizontal notch and hand traverse left to the hourglasses.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Skříň
Via the "Old route" to the SE edge and directly along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Skříň
About 3m to the right of the start of the "Old route", up the face to the traverse of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Skříň
From the massif, descend through the chimney into the gully (or ascend through the gully… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Špičák
From the saddle, traverse left and along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Špičák
Via the "Drastissima" route to 1. K. Up the face, higher over the overhang to K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Špičák
Along the pillar in the valley face to the balcony (ring) and up the face diagonally left… Rock Climbing
4+
Špičák
From the valley, through the corner between Skříň and Špičák to the saddle and like the … Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Špičák
To the right in the valley face, via the rib and corner (2 BH) to the balcony, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Špičák
From the saddle, traverse the E face to the right and along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Špičák
Through the middle of the plateau face via 3K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák
Up the narrow N face to the ledge, traverse right to the crack and up it to 1. K. Up the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Špičák
Along the inconspicuous valley edge to the balcony (K). Up the face under the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Špičák
In the North face directly to 1BH and 2BH. From the left, up the face to 3BH, then right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Špičák
Through the gully from the East to the saddle and along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vojtěch
Right of the start of the "Old Route" along the edge (K) to the ledge, then continue as… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Vojtíšek
Right in the valley wall, via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vojtěch
Left in the plateau wall via a step into an open notch and from there to the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Vojtěch
Left in the plateau wall via 2 K to the 3rd K and traverse left beyond the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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