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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Hubert
From the uphill side traverse along the ledge to the right and at the NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Hubert
Through the crack in the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Hubert
Like "Old route" traverse from the saddle to the right and right in the V wall over an… Rock Climbing
5
Hubert
About 3m left of "Krátká spára" to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hubert
From the upper side, traverse left into the center of the valley wall and via the chimney… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Hubert
To the right of the “Tears in Eyes” route, along a narrow crack (sling) to a large ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Hubert
To the right in the valley wall via a chimney to the saddle, traverse left and via the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Hubert
To the left of the “Whatever Happens” route, up the overhanging wall past 4 bolt hangers … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hubert
Eight meters to the left of the valley chimney via an overhanging corner (two rings) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Hubert
To the left of the “Short Trousers” route, via a friction climb (rajbas) past 2 rings (K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Hubert
At the base of the S wall, traverse right to the ring. Up the wall and via a crack below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Hubert
To the left of the “Rock Lichen” route, over three bolt hangers (BH) below the roof and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Hubert
Together with the “Tears in Eyes” route, along the edge to a block ledge along a crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Hubert
To the left of the large valley corner, along the edge to the balcony and via a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kočka
Through the center of the overhanging upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kočka
Up the upper wall to the balcony, right into the valley wall and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kočka
From the balcony via the overhanging edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hubert
From the E via a crack and higher up a chimney to the balcony to the ring. (By standing)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kočka
From the upper side, left through a hole into the valley wall (hourglass of the “Valley… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kočka
In the left part of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kočka
To the right in the valley wall to the hourglass and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Skříň
As "Memorial Route" to the 1st K. Directly along the wall under the overhang. Left over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Skříň
To the left of the Expo route, directly along the wall over 2 BH under the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Skříň
From the 3rd K, diagonally left along the wall, then directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Skříň
To the left in the valley wall over 3 K to the 1st K of the "Star Wanderer" route and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Skříň
Along the "Memorial Route" to the 1st K. Diagonally right along the wall to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Skříň
Along the "Andromeda" route to the 1st K of the "Star Wanderer" route. Diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Skříň
From the 1st K along the edge directly over K to the 3rd K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Skříň
In the chimney by the right valley edge, then to the right of it to the 1st K. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Skříň
To the right in the valley wall, through a hollow under the overhang and left to a ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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