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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Zapomenutá věž
Completely to the right in the valley wall to the ledge and via the wall to 1st K. Over… Rock Climbing
6-
Zapomenutá věž
From 3rd K via gully under the overhang, traverse right and via narrow chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Zapomenutá věž
Completely to the right on the valley side via the wall over 1st BH to the ledge (slings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Zapomenutá věž
Completely to the right in the valley wall to the ledge, along it to the left and along… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Zapomenutá věž
Right of "Lost and Found" via the wall over 7BH to the rappelling point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zapomenutá věž
Along the left valley edge via the wall to the 1st K of the "Valley Route". Rock Climbing
5
Zapomenutá věž
From 1st K directly via crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Zapomenutá věž
Left of the "Memory" route via the wall (K) to the ledge and through the center of the… Rock Climbing
5
Zapomenutá věž
Through the crack in the N wall to its end, traverse left and through another crack to… Rock Climbing
5+
Plocháč
Description: Up the wall along the right valley edge to the top of the boulder (approx.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zapomenutá věž
Start left of "Osudová cesta". Over an overhang into a crack, through it to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Partyzán
Start right of Hubertus. Traverse right to the balcony, jump to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Partyzán
From the gorge between Zapomenutá věž and Partyzán through the corner between the towers,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Partyzán
Start right of Hubertus. Traverse right to the balcony, jump to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Partyzán
From the massif descend through the chimney to the ledge and jump to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Partyzán
From the saddle between Pašerácká stěna and the massif, hand traverse left to the edge of… Rock Climbing
4+
Partyzán
Left in the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Partyzán
About 5 m right of the Hrana stěhováků route, start via chimney 1BH traverse left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hubertus
In the right part of the valley wall, 4 meters left of the starting corner of Cesta pro… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Partyzán
From the start of Cesta pro Najmanku to Hubertus using corners, later via the NW edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hubertus
Start in the chimney between Partyzán and Hubertus. A few meters up, a long traverse to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hubertus
In the middle of the wall through cracks over 2 K into a widening crack, up through it in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hubertus
Left of the "Trauma" route via a diagonal crack (hourglass) to the end, higher over 3K to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Hubertus
Right of the "Trauma" route up the wall, through a crack and fissure over 7BH to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Hubertus
Right of the Trauma route up the wall over an overhang into an incision and through it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Hubertus
In the large valley corner between Hubertus and Hubert, up the wall to the rib bh and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hubertus
Completely left in the valley wall over 2 rings to the 1st ring of the Ospalá hrana route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Hubert
Like "Old route" traverse right to the NE edge. Over that via an overhang, traverse right… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hubertus
In the left part of the valley wall, left of the Anoxemie route, along the rib, over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hubertus
Right of "Valley chimney" on Hubert up the wall and edge via 3K to the top. Rock Climbing

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