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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Klášter
Via the route 'Klenba' (Arch) to the 1st ring. Up the wall directly to the 2nd ring, from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Klášter
Left of 'Rok síly' (Year of Power), over the overhang (2 bolts) to its 1st K and right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Klášter
Right of 'Quasimodo', up the slab (4 bolts and sling) to the left to the first ring of … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Klášter
Approach left of 'Klenba' (Arch) via a corner and a small crack. Further right up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Klášter
From the start of 'Levé vhloubení' (Left hollow), directly up the wall over several… Rock Climbing
5+
Klášter
In the middle of the W face, in a small corner into a crack, through it into the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Klášter
In the valley NW face, via a crack diagonally rightwards into the chimney and through it… Rock Climbing
5+
Klášter
Through the middle of the wall to a ledge, right and up the wall to a crack. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Divadlo
In the SW face, left of the chimney, past 7 bolts to the abseil anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Divadlo
Along the W ridge and up the pillar left of the crack, past 6 rings to the abseil anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Skaut
Left of the NE ridge, up through the hollow, then right to the ridge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Skaut
Up the small wall from the gully to the step towards K. Directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Skaut
Along the SE ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Skaut
Up the left part of the valley wall to the edge. Rock Climbing
5
Skaut
Through the middle of the S face via K n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Skaut
Up the middle of the valley wall over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Skaut
Up the right valley edge under an overhang. Up the wall above it and left to a bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Skaut
From the upper (plateau) side to the right edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Skaut
From the upper (plateau) side, up the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Labský pilíř
Between the routes 'Magic Wall' and 'Bosanova', up the wall (2 bolts) to a ledge. Left … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Labský pilíř
To the left of the 'Left Wall' via the wall and edge (4 bolts) to the abseil anchor (35 m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Mungo
Directly up the West face via a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2
Kobra
From Smugglers' Wall with two easy traverses to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kobra
From the plateau side, through the chimney between the tower and Smugglers' Wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Kobra
To the right in the S wall of the upper half of the tower, from the sloping stone up the… Rock Climbing
5
Kobra
To the left in the wall of the right half of the tower, via an indistinct hollow to a… Rock Climbing
5+
Kobra
In the middle of the wall along a small rib over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kobra
Through the chimney between both summits. Rock Climbing
6-
Kobra
To the left of "Corner Crack" left into a small crack and along it to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kobra
To the left of "Antidote", via the crack and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing

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