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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Veřejný dům
To the right of route "E 55" up the wall via 8 K to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10+/11-
Veřejný dům
To the left of route "September 11th" up the wall via 4 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Veřejný dům
To the left of Betom up the wall via 4 BH to the abseil. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Veřejný dům
Up the wall to the right of the edge directly to the 1st K of route "E 55" and continue… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Veřejný dům
From the left edge diagonally right to K. Then directly up the wall to the right of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Jižní Tyršova věž
Right of the SW edge, up the wall via 1st K into a small crack and along the edge to 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Jižní Tyršova věž
Left in the South face obliquely left to 1st K, up the wall to the ledge and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9/9+
Jižní Tyršova věž
Via the route "Farewell Waltz" to 1st K, then up the wall via 3 K and the hourglass to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Severní Tyršova věž
From the rear side, up the chimney between the towers into the gully, then traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Severní Tyršova věž
From the gully between the South and North Tower, up the crack to K and directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Severní Tyršova věž
Via the route "Without Complexes" to the 2nd K of "B-complex". Then into the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Severní Tyršova věž
Along the blunt edge over BH and 2K to the 2nd K of "B-complex". Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Severní Tyršova věž
Up the blunt edge to the left of "Sonata of Vertical Life" and up the wall over the 1st K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Severní Tyršova věž
Along the route "Skinning" to the 2nd ring, from there right to a prominent edge, over it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Severní Tyršova věž
As "Skinning" for about 5m, traverse right beyond the edge and along it (1st K and 2nd K)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Severní Tyršova věž
From the 2nd K of "Edita" to the right and up the wall over 3 K, traverse right and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Pražská stěna
Up the cracks of the Direct Doves' Route to the end and up the wall via 3 BH to the 7th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pražská stěna
In the left part of the valley wall via 3 BH directly to the 2nd ring of the "White… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Sluneční věž
From the upper balcony on the NW side of the tower right by the wall and over a roof-like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Sluneční věž
From the gorge with 'Prezident' up the center of the NW face via 3 K's to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sluneční věž
From the North from a block on the plateau side, step over and by the wall right to the… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Sluneční věž
In the SW face left of 'Kotel síly' briefly by a corner/small chimney (sokolík) and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Sluneční věž
From the massif a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Sluneční věž
Along the edge to the BH, from the right to the second BH higher directly to the 3rd BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Sluneční věž
From the South side, passage through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sluneční věž
By the 'Old route', traverse right and by the wall into a crack. Through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sluneční věž
Left of the SE edge by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sluneční věž
Along the SE edge, higher up using a crack over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Sluneční věž
From the South into the chimney between the tower and the massif and in its right part by… Rock Climbing
3
Sluneční věž
From the massif near the SE edge, descend to a ledge, traverse and by a crack to the… Rock Climbing

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