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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Zarostlá věž
To the right of the N edge, by stemming against a block to the 1st BH and from the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Zarostlá věž
About 10m to the right of the "Smuggler's Chimney" route, up the wall and edge over 4 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Zarostlá věž
From the balcony, traverse left and up the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
8/8+
Zarostlá věž
In the NW wall, like the Poacher's Chimney, briefly to the balcony. To the left of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Zarostlá věž
From the base of the NW wall, through a chimney to an alcove under a roof-like overhang.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Zarostlá věž
From the saddle, descend left to a ledge, follow it left into a corner and to its end.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Áron
To the right of the Positive Serenity route, up the wall over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Zarostlá věž
In the plateau wall (by position/climbing) into the crack and then to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Áron
In the left part of the wall, via a small corner and wall over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Bleší trh
From the floor between Flea Market and Aaron at the NW edge via a crack (2 BH), left up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Bleší trh
Follow the "Vertical Temptation" route to the 2nd BH, right via the crack to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Bleší trh
To the left of the start of the "Vertical Temptation" route, up the wall and crack over 4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Bleší trh
In the right part of the valley wall over BH to the ledge and right along the small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Bleší trh
Briefly through a crack like the Apathy of Movement route and traverse left to the 1st BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Bleší trh
To the left of the "Ball Lightning" route, via a crack and corner under a large overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Bleší trh
To the right of the Apathy of Movement route, via a corner about 15m up under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Bleší trh
Via the corner and edge, left of the "Great Ball" route, over 4 BH to the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Bleší trh
From the 3rd BH of the route "Postavení mimo hru" (Offside Position) up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Bleší trh
From the 4th BH of the route "Postavení mimo hru" (Offside Position) up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Bleší trh
Start via a crack to the right of the "Breathe Deeply" path. Along the blunt edge, higher… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Bleší trh
From the 2nd BH of the route "Postavení mimo hru" (Offside Position) to the right via a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Bleší trh
To the right of the path "Offside" along the edge over 2 BH to the 3rd BH. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Bleší trh
In the left part of the valley wall, up the corner crack over BH under the overhang and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Bleší trh
From the large balcony in the left part of the valley wall along cracks to K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Bleší trh
In the right part of the south wall, up the chimney to 1st BH. Further up the wall over 5… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Bleší trh
In the middle of the right south wall, up the distinct right crack, then further along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Bleší trh
Via the Left South Route to the balcony. Overhang (BH) and edge (BH) to abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Bleší trh
Up the left south crack to abseil K. Over the large overhang (2 BH) to abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Bleší trh
In the middle of the south wall, up the left crack over K and BH, then further along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Bleší trh
Entry in the large corner to the left of the route "Entry into the Book of Legends".… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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