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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Bleší trh
Entry in the large corner to the left of the route "Entry into the Book of Legends".… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Bleší trh
To the left of the route "Levá jižní cesta" (Left South Route) up the small wall and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Bleší trh
Up the left edge and wall over K, then further up the wall over 2 BH and K under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Bleší trh
In the left part of the south wall, along the edge and up the wall over 6 BH to abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Bleší trh
Between the routes 'Pexesiáda' and 'Myšofiš' via a short crack and then up the wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Bleší trh
To the left of the route 'Pexesiáda' up the wall over 6 BH to abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Bleší trh
Left on the south side up the wall over 3 BH to an overhanging crack (4th BH), then via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Labský nic
To the right of the route 'Krátká' (Short) on the south-facing pyritic wall along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Labský nic
Up the wall to the right of the chimney directly (2 BH) and through a recess over 3rd BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Labský nic
Right on the massive rock, up the wall over BH to a ledge. Further along the overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Labský nic
Like 'A Children's Dream', several meters up and right along the wall over 2 BH to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Labský nic
To the left of the Children's Dream route, up the crack into a large hole and right up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Labský nic
Distinct edge behind 'Labská panna' (Elbe Maiden) from the right to 1st BH. Along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Labský nic
From the 2nd BH of the "Nothing else matters" route, left up the wall via 7 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Labský nic
Distinct corner and crack over 3 BH to 4th BH. Through crack and wall, over 2 BH,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Labská panna
In the valley wall at the left edge (hourglass) left to the 1st K. Up and right behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Labská panna
Along the route "Touch of Love" to the 1st K and then directly via 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Labská panna
From the saddle up the BH wall and over the overhang to the 1st K. Then up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
10-/10
Labská panna
From the BH of "Dynamic Defloration" up the wall along the right upper edge (4 BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Labská panna
Through the crack like the route Touch of Love and further in the left part of the valley… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Labská panna
From the 1st K of the "Virgin Apples" route right via 3 K and left into the hole to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Labská panna
From the gorge along the edge directly over K into the traverse of "Lady's Gambit" and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Labská panna
From the gorge left to a large balcony (BH - stance). Up the NE edge via 4 K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Labská panna
Approximately 3m before the end of the gorge, traverse left behind the edge to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Labská panna
(The tower was unsportingly climbed on 28. 4. 1922 by Paul Schöne, P. Hüttler, A.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Labská panna
From the 1st K of the "Gambítek" route from the right, via the chimney to the 2nd K. Up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Veřejný dům
In the right half of the stone massif directly up the wall via 2 BH. Up the wall via 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Veřejný dům
Completely in the right part of the wall, a short opposition between the wall and the pre… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Veřejný dům
To the right of the September 11th route up the wall via 2 BH to the 3rd BH of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Veřejný dům
To the right on the valley side, through a smaller corner and up the wall via 3 K to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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