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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
František
Between the routes "Flying Start" and "Hey Hou Ska" up the wall and higher up over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
František
Right of the route "Mass Sport", up the wall-edge via 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
František
Through the center of the left part of the valley wall via 3 BH and left along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
František
Up the left valley edge (left of the "Flying Start" route) via 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
František
From the S, up the chimney to the terrace and up the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Panic
From the north side of the massif, left to the balcony and left through the corner hollow… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
František
From the S, right of the chimney, up the pillar wall (2 BH) and edge via 3 BH and the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
František
Up the left valley edge into a short wall (BH) and up it to the ledge. Along the crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Panic
Briefly up the "First Date" route and left behind the edge to the 1st BH. Up the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Panic
In the right part of the S wall, through a system of cracks to the 1st BH. Left and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Panic
From the terrace, between František and Panic, up the wall to K and left via 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Panic
From the 1st BH of the "First Date" route, along the crack and up the wall via 4 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Panic
From the S, up the crack via 2 K to the balcony. Right to the 3rd K and up the wall via 4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Šípková růženka
Right in the valley wall up the rib, along the wall to the right, then right through the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Šípková růženka
Left in the valley wall through a crack and up the wall via 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Ervín
Left of the center of the valley wall from the balcony from the block up the right corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Ervín
In the left part of the massif, left of the Hubertus route, through the corner and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Zarostlá věž
Up the SW edge via 2 K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Ervín
Right below the start of the Hubertus route, up the wall via 5 BH to the 3rd K of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Zarostlá věž
From the SE, up the chimney between the tower and the massif briefly, and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Zarostlá věž
Left of the route "Art of Love" on the SE wall via 4 K to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Zarostlá věž
From the base of the S edge, traverse the SE wall right to the top of the pillar. Up the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Zarostlá věž
Right in the SE wall diagonally right to a small balcony in the E edge and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8/8+
Zarostlá věž
Through the left part of the valley wall over 6 BH into a crack, through it (BH) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Zarostlá věž
Through the center of the valley wall over 9 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Zarostlá věž
To the left of the Lord of Winds route, up the wall over 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Zarostlá věž
To the left of the "Night Club" route over 6 BH to the 6th BH of the "Night Club" route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Zarostlá věž
Follow the "Night Club" route to the 4th BH, from there right into the crack and through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Zarostlá věž
To the right of the N edge, by stemming against a block to the 1st BH and from the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Zarostlá věž
Through the right part of the valley wall over 4 BH into a crack, through it over 3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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